Quantcast
Channel: 1stdibs – Jewels du Jour
Viewing all 21 articles
Browse latest View live

Estate Jewelry at 1stdibs.com

$
0
0

The past few weeks have been on the slower side for exciting estate jewelry pieces surfacing onto 1stdibs.com, so I decided to wait until there were enough pieces to warrant a devoted post.  Luckily, this week’s newest additions to the site have proven that the lazy days of summer are coming to an end and the busy fall auction season is fast approaching.  Here are my selections of extraordinary estate jewelry that exhibit the rare qualities worthy of a collector’s attention.

 

JAR – A Fire Opal and Ruby ‘Rose Bud’ Bracelet – Designed as a thin bangle centring on a single rose bud, the unfurling petals set with circular-cut rubies and fire opals, to sepals in brushed gold, signed JAR Paris, 1996. Composed of 157 fire opals weighing 5.10cts total, and 139 rubies weighing 10.93cts in total.

Almost always referred to as the “reclusive jeweler,” JAR has earned his reputation as one of the greatest jewelers of modern times.  A Harvard-educated New York native, Joel Arthur Rosenthal tried his hand in several artistic enterprises, starting with writing French and English movie-scripts then jumping to designing tapestries, mastering the art of needlepoint and working briefly for Bulgari.  The series of job stints honed his skill for minute detail and jewelry making, finally finding his calling as a jeweler.  His small, hidden shop in the Place Vendôme, which he opened with his partner Pierre Jeannet in 1977, is a beacon of high jewelry art.  Best known for using dark alloyed metals and exceptionally fine pavé settings, JAR’s custom-made creations are truly masterful; and this fire opal and ruby ‘Rose Bud’ bracelet is no exception to this.  Another feature championed by JAR is his meticulous attention to detail, particularly color.  Note how the stones vary in pink and red hues in such a way so that they highlight the exact curves of the organically shaped rose bud, making this piece a spectacularly realistic rendering of the naturally beautiful flower.

Originally sold by Sotheby’s, here is the description for the lot:

Sold for 122,500 CHF (on May 14-15, 2012)

The cuff bracelet highlighted with a rose bud set with circular-cut fire opals and rubies, the petals mounted in brushed yellow gold, circumference approximately 155mm, signed JAR Paris, French maker’s marks.

Cf: Joel Rosenthal & Pierre Jeannet, JAR, Paris, 2002, reference 253 for an illustration of this bangle.

 

Georges Fouquet – Gold, Aquamarine, Diamond & Enamel Brooch – Magnificent Art Nouveau brooch in 18ct yellow gold symmetrically designed with a central aquamarine panel suspending a large aquamarine drop inbetween two green tourmalines within enamelled oval forms with diamond detailing Georges Fouquet, Paris circa 1901

If you’ve ever been to Paris, I really hope you made time to see the Alphonse Mucha-designed Fouquet jewelry shop, impeccably preserved in the Musée Carnavalet, as it is a perfect example of the sensuously curvy lines and naturalistic motifs defined by Art Nouveau.  So, too, is this brooch by Georges Fouquet.  The swooping curves and light blue aquamarine and green tourmaline delicately accented with diamonds exhibit the feminine adornments beloved during the Art Nouveau era.

 

Van Cleef & Arpels – Sapphire & Diamond Chandelier Earrings – Sapphire and diamond chandelier earrings, set with four pear-shaped sapphires weighing approximately 18.15 total carats, accented by circular-cut and pear-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 17.23 total carats, mounted in 18k yellow gold, with clips and post backs, the drops detachable so that the surmounts can be worn separately, signed Van Cleef & Arpels. 2.25″ length.

Now here are a pair of earrings that are sure to make a statement.  Big, beautiful stones and dazzling design are Van Cleef & Arpels’ best attributes; their designs since the Maison’s founding in 1906 pioneered the way for exquisite, magnificent jewelry.  Certainly created for wear at special occasions, these earrings constitute a prime example of Van Cleef & Arpels’ talent for gemstone selection and master craftsmanship in jewelry.

 

Cartier – A One of a Kind Double Headed Tiger Bangle Bracelet – Cartier, a one of a kind Double Headed Tiger bangle bracelet, mounted in 18k yellow gold, pavé-set to the front with circular-cut fancy yellow diamonds, 280 calibré black onyx designed as stripes, 2 pear-shaped emerald eyes and black onyx nose, with pivoting heads. 977 diamonds weighing a total of approximately 15.09 carats. Signed Cartier, numbered 607986.

Even though Cartier is best known for their panther designs, the tiger also received some love and attention by the famed Maison.  Director of Fine Jewellery from 1933, Jeanne Toussaint made her fondness for wild cats well known with her first Panthère piece commissioned by the Duchess of Windsor in 1948, followed by many more commissions by famous actresses and wealthy socialites.  This unique double-headed tiger bangle would surely do Mlle Toussaint proud.

 

Bulgari – A Pair of Multi-Gem and Diamond ‘Carre’ Brooches – The pair of triangular brooches are enhanced by calibré-cut emerald, ruby and diamond motifs, each set with a cultured pearl measures approximately 10.4 mm, brooch measures approximately 2.7 x 4.3 cm, mounted in 18K yellow gold, with Italian assay marks, signed “Bulgari”, circa 1990.

With the first Bulgari shop opening in 1884 in Rome on the Via Sistina under Sotirio Bulgari, the jewelry house has grown exponentially with respect to design and style since its early roots.  Sotirio’s sons, Giorgio and Costantino, then took over the family business in 1932 upon their father’s death.  Inspired by Greek and Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and the 19th century Roman school of goldsmiths, the brothers have largely developed Bulgari’s iconic and distinct style.  The pair of brooches, applied with a trefoil motif and set with natural pearls, calibré-cut rubies and emeralds, and baguette and tapered baguette diamonds, serve as wonderful examples of pure design from Bulgari.  Originally sold at Sotheby’s:  Natural Pearl, Emerald and Diamond Brooch, Bulgari & Natural Pearl, Ruby and Diamond Brooch, Bulgari

 

Rare French Diamond Emerald Dragonfly Pin Attributed to Fouquet – Emerald and diamond Dragonfly brooch, the wings in platinum set with diamonds, the body set with emeralds, and the eyes with two cabochon sapphires, circa 1885.

Whether or not this was created by Fouquet, this exquisite dragonfly brooch and its realistic design give credence to Art Nouveau’s contribution to the progress of jewelry making.  Butterflies and dragonflies were prominent inspirations during the Art Nouveau era, offering wonderful purpose to the use of colorful gemstones and curving lines seen in their wings and bodies.  Normally, dragonfly wings would be made using the plique-à-jour technique, whose translucent enamel offers a more realistic replication of the wings, but this brooch erred on the side of spectacular by using brilliant diamonds instead.  How marvelous!

 

Van Cleef & Arpels – A Pair Of Emerald and Diamond Ear Clips – Each designed as a swan curved around the lope of the ear, set with circular-cut diamonds, the eyes set with circular-cut emeralds, circa 1970, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered 29540, French assay and maker’s marks.

Naturally, birds have always provided inspiration for Van Cleef & Arpels with their colorful plumage and various shapes and sizes.  Despite the swan’s white feathers, the Maison utilizes the graceful movement of this elegant bird’s neck to create these delightfully charming ear clips.  After seeing them in Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels catalogue and in Van Cleef & Arpels’ book Set In Style, I have always adored them for the creative style and delicate design.

 

Cartier – A Gem-Set Bird Of Paradise Brooch – Designed as a stylised bird of paradise, the yellow gold wirework body embellished with a head and crest pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, accented with an emerald eye, the tail and foliate perch with diamond and ruby detail, signed Cartier Paris and indistinctly numbered, 1960s.

Continuing with the bird motif, I just find this bird brooch incredibly regal, even in spite of its crown of sparkling feathers atop its head.  What draws me in the most is the intricate weaving of the gold, with the wrapped wires offering a sense of frenzied movement.  Such attention to detail and extraordinary skill are too few and far between nowadays, so it is so refreshing to see a piece that so superbly demonstrates Cartier’s unmatched craftsmanship in jewelry.

 

 


Sparkling Fall Foliage

$
0
0

My favorite season is autumn for the simple fact that the leaves change colors in splendid style in the Northeast.  The vibrant red, yellow and orange hues, and all the variations in between, provide wonderful inspiration for jewelry, and nothing exhibits fall better than a piece of jewelry made in its image.  So, as an homage to my favorite season, I have collected those jewels that perfectly reflect the leaves and colors of my very favorite season.

 

image Verdura Buccellati Verdura Hemmerle Verdura Rene Boivin Paolo Costagli Hemmerle Paolo Costagli 242350023668010130_G3APsh8a_c JAR Hemmerle Van Cleef & Arpels 242350023668077158_2ShEvHRY_c Hemmerle Amsterdam Sauer 242350023668545577_yZQObBge_c Temple St. Clair Cartier Cartier Buccellati via Betteridge h082050-golden-leaf-brooch-3569d Hemmerle Rene Boivin Rene Boivin Paolo Costagli Trianon Van Cleef & Arpels YELLOW DIAMOND AND DIAMOND 'GINGKO LEAF' BROOCH, Tiffany & Co. via Sotheby's A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND COLOURED DIAMOND LEAF BROOCHES, BY CARNET via Christie's A PAIR OF MULTI-GEM BROOCHES, BY CARVIN FRENCH via Christie's A PAIR OF RETRO CITRINE AND GOLD BROOCHES, BY PAUL FLATO  from Christie's Alex Woo Angela Cummings Art Nouveau Plique-à-Jour Enamel and diamond leaf brooch, French, circa 1900 via Sotheby's CARVED RED JADEITE 'LEAF' AND DIAMOND BROOCH AND PAIR OF MATCHING EAR CLIPS via Sothbey's Colored Diamond Ring via Christie's Citrine earrings from 1stdibs.com Necklace from 1stdibs.com Goshwara TOURMALINE, DIAMOND AND CULTURED PEARL BROOCH, ELIZABETH GAGE via Sotheby's ANDRADITE GARNET AND DIAMOND 'LEAF' BROOCH AND PAIR OF MATCHING TSAVORITE GARNET EAR CLIPS via Sothebys

 

 

Estate Jewelry: A Duck, A Bow & Some Art Deco

$
0
0

Today’s selection of estate jewelry posted yesterday on 1stdibs.com includes a charming lapis lazuli and diamond bow ring, an adorable duck pin from Cartier, and a stunning Art Deco rock crystal and diamond brooch also from Cartier.  The other pieces are just as exciting, so be sure to read on.  I just love finding great estate pieces!

 

CARTIER Art Deco Rock Crystal & Diamond Brooch

CARTIER Art Deco Rock Crystal & Diamond Brooch
Art Deco diamond brooch, designed as an oblong foliate motif, pavé-set with circular-cut diamonds with black enamel accents, mounted in platinum, circa 1926, numbered 3707, signed Cartier Paris.

Cartier flourished during the Art Deco period and this brooch is a prime example of their success.  Pavé set diamonds used to form a contrasting white field against the subtle black enamel accents and the bold, streamlined shape of this brooch exemplify the modern aesthetic central to the Art Deco style.

 

CARTIER Diamond, Enamel Gold Duck Pin

CARTIER Diamond, Enamel Gold Duck Pin
This adorable duck was made in 1992. It has French Eagle stamp and a serial number.

In all honesty, I just think this duck is too cute!

 

Lapis Lazuli and Diamond Ring

Lapis Lazuli and Diamond Ring
Circa 1970
An unusual carved lapis lazuli and brilliant cut diamond ring (approximately .80 carat of diamonds), 18 karat yellow gold, sizeable 5.75

A good bow is hard to find and I’ve never seen a bow ring that uses lapis lazuli so wonderfully.  A favorite stone of ancient Egypt for amulets and scarab ornaments, lapis lazuli has long been used in jewelry for its bright blue color and the relative ease to carve and polish it.  The brilliant white of pavé diamonds contrasts vividly with the intense blue of the soft, billowing bow, resulting in a somewhat graceful eye-catching effect.  Marvelous!

ILIAS LALAOUNIS High Karat Gold and Pearl Earrings

ILIAS LALAOUNIS High Karat Gold and Pearl Earrings
These high karat gold earrings have that cool ethnic vibe no one does better than Ilias Lalaounis. From ancient Greece to the catwalks of Fashion Week, he saw shapes and forms as one world. These earrings could have been inspired by cave paintings or the molecular structure of tiny organisms. They are a spectacular visual feast on the ear. Noted; these earrings are currently clips. Excellent condition.

Gold, Greece and antiquities-inspired jewelry only scratch the surface in describing the stunning work of Ilias Lalaounis.  Born in Athens in 1920, this talented designer came from four generations of goldsmiths and watchmakers from the region of Delphi.  An apprenticeship at his uncle’s jewelry company and a fascination with Greek history and art cultivated Ilias Lalaounis’ vision of reviving ancient artifacts and antiquities by transforming them into jewelry using modern techniques.  To achieve this undertaking, he learned old practices like “granulation”, “filigree”, “hand-weaving”  and “hand-hammering” to create his archeological revival jewelry collections inspired by prehistoric Minoan, Persian and Byzantine art as well as cultures in Europe, Asia and America.  These earrings display the remarkable intricacy and intelligent design championed by Lalaounis as they refurbish a centuries-old style from the ancient civilizations.

 

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Good Luck Elephant Charm Bracelet

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Good Luck Elephant Charm Bracelet
Van Cleef & Arpels 18k gold link charm bracelet set with 90 diamonds weighing approximately 3 cts and suspending a basket weave good luck elephant with 10 diamonds set in the ear and a ruby eye. Both pieces are signed and stock numbers are present. Bracelet measures 6.5″ in length and includes an extension piece of 1.25″ of the same diamond links. Extension is numbered as well with French hallmarks present. Elephant charm measures 1.25″ in width and 1″ high. circa 1960s

The best charm is one that brings good luck, and this charm in the form of an elephant with its trunk raised is a sure thing.  Our fascination with this lucky image stems from the amalgamation of the Indian Hinu god Ganesha, the elephant-headed deity who is worshiped for luck, and the sacred white elephants of Thailand.  As a result, the good-luck elephant knick knack remains a popular symbol today to wish upon for infinite good fortune.

 

Art Nouveau Enamel, Freshwater Pearl & Diamond Pendant Necklace

Art Nouveau Enamel, Freshwater Pearl & Diamond Pendant Necklace
circa 1900
An Art Nouveau 18 karat gold necklace with enamel flower petals and freshwater pearls accented with 13 rose cut diamonds suspended from a gold and pearl chain.

The delicate, flowing petals and soft pastel colors of this necklace serve as key characteristics of the Art Nouveau era.  Light and airy in shape and design, this pendant is a worthy ode to nature and Art Nouveau .

 

CARTIER Pearl Wrapped Yellow Gold Bracelet

CARTIER Pearl Wrapped Yellow Gold Bracelet
1970′s
18k Yellow Gold Pearl Wrapped Bracelet by Cartier France. A beautiful vintage Cartier piece made in France. There is nothing similar to this piece available online, making it one-of-a-kind. A truly wonderful piece for the avid Cartier collector. With 2 pearl strands, each with 33 pearls, good color, beautiful sheen, good grade, approx 5 to 5.5mm in diameter each, wrapped around rope style 18k gold bracelet.

I find this Cartier bracelet beautifully feminine with entwining pearl and delicate yellow gold link chain.  Such a timeless style is quite simply elegant!

 

 

 

Estate Jewelry at 1stdibs.com: From Georgian to Art Nouveau and Beyond!

$
0
0

Today’s slew of jewels on 1stdibs.com included several great examples from the Art Nouveau period as well as a gorgeous pair of Georgian earrings and impressive pieces from Van Cleef & Arpels.  Not to be outdone by an important historic period or prestigious maker, a funky cocktail ring certainly holds its own with a 23.50 carat Burmese sapphire.  Here are my picks from the lot:

 

Burmese Sapphire, Emerald & Ruby Cocktail Ring – from Betteridge

Burmese Sapphire, Emerald & Ruby Cocktail Ring – from Betteridge
Cocktail ring, centering on a bezel-set 23.50 carat, cabochon-cut sapphire (AGL-certified: natural, of Burmese origin), flanked by two cabochon-cut emerald shoulders, weighing approximately 5.00 total carats and twelve cabochon-cut rubies weighing approximately 3.00 total carats, with rose-cut diamond accents weighing approximately 0.96 total carats, mounted in 18k pink gold. Re-sizable.

Upon first impression, this ring is definitely different and unusual, but the brightly hued stones are unquestionably striking together.  Despite the rings somewhat cumbersome setting and design, I like its funkiness in comparison to all the other dime-a-dozen large precious stone cocktail rings.  This one has personality!

 

BOUCHERON Art Nouveau Opal Ruby Garnet Enamel Brooch – from Macklowe Gallery
French Art Nouveau gold, ruby, garnet, white opal and enamel brooch by Boucheron. The 18-karat gold brooch features whiplash curves and foliate motifs decorated with cloissonné enamel and is accented by rubies, garnets and a triangular white opal center. Unsigned. Circa 1900

Boucheron is perhaps one of the oldest jewelers still around today but the Parisian house’s importance in the world of high jewelry is undeniable.  Opening his first shop in 1858, Frédéric Boucheron quickly received well-deserved recognition for his fine designs and skillful craftsmanship, winning his first Gold Medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition only 9 years later.  The firm was growing fast and in need of a larger space, so Boucheron moved to the mansion previously owned by the Contesse de Castiglione at 26 Place Vendôme, the first jeweler to do so.  Boucheron achieved even greater acclaim with his work during the Art Nouveau period, in which the talented jeweler excelled.  With 30 years of practice working with plique-à-jour enamel technique, Boucheron had already perfected this skill by the time Art Nouveau came around and made it a staple technique in jewelry from this period.  Arguably considered the pinnacle of the Art Nouveau movement, the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1900 cemented Boucheron as the dominant force when he  was awarded the Grand Prix and Gold Medal for his designs.  The sinuous lines and seamlessly smooth enameling seen in this exquisite brooch beautifully exhibit the depth of skill and design from Boucheron during the very height of its reign in the Art Nouveau period.

 

Georgian Precious Topaz & Gold Earrings – from Sheila Goldfinger

Georgian Precious Topaz & Gold Earrings – from Sheila Goldfinger
circa 1820
18 karat bloomed gold and precious topaz earrings done in the baroque style. All original and in perfect condition. Each completed by a shepherd’s hook and measuring 2 inches long. Total estimated weight of the 4 topaz 9.50 carats.

Spanning from 1710 to 1830, the Georgian period derives its name from the four successive English kings, George I, George II, George III and George IV.  Varying styles were propagated throughout the period and these earrings are a prime example of the late Baroque, or Rococo, style of the era.  Surviving jewelry from this period is rare since much of it was melted down after a certain number of years and re-fashioned to create jewels more in line with the style of the time.  Also notable of these earrings is the precious topaz, a popular stone of the period along with garnet, amethyst and coral.  The sumptuous lines in combination with the warm gold and amber-brown topaz evoke the grandeur of royal courts and ballrooms from a bygone era in European history.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS A Pair of Emerald, Ruby and Diamond Earrings – from FD Gallery

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS A Pair of Emerald, Ruby and Diamond Earrings – from FD Gallery
Van Cleef & Arpels, A Pair of Carved Emerald, Ruby and Diamond Ear Pendants, each designed as fluted emerald, ruby and diamond tassel pendants, suspended from a detachable carved emerald bead surmount, within a circular-cut diamond surround. With maker’s marks, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered NY34308, circa 1963. The earring tops are inspired from Indian flowers and the pendants are modern versions of the antique Indian ”Turra” tassel that was worn in Princely turbans.  Circa 1963

From FD description:

During the 1950′s, Claude Arpels paid visits to several Indian princes with the purpose of acquiring gems. After the fall of the Raj, magnificent Indian stately treasuries were slowly and discretely sold. The Arpels family replaced the pre war eminence of Cartier and they were most successful in bringing renowned Indian princely jeweled treasures back to Paris and New York. Van Cleef & Arpels created a stir during the 1950′s and 1960′s with Indian inspired jewels. Strands of carved fluted emerald bead necklaces that had formally been worn in several layers were separated and each bead was redesigned into superb modern creations.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Carved Fluted Emerald Bead Diamond Gold Bombé – from FD Gallery

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Carved Fluted Emerald Bead Diamond Gold Bombé – from FD
Van Cleef & Arpels, A Carved Fluted Emerald Bead Diamond Gold Bombé Ring, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, and numbered N.Y. 54341, size 6.75, circa 1960s.

 

 PAUL LIENARD Art Nouveau Ivory, Ruby & Enamel Brooch – from Macklowe Gallery

PAUL LIENARD Art Nouveau Ivory, Ruby & Enamel Brooch – from Macklowe Gallery
circa 1900′s
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold brooch by Paul Lienard, featuring carved ivory bleeding heart flowers and plique a jour enamel leaves with 6 pear shape ruby centers that have an approximate total weight of .70 carats.

A lovely example of the Art Nouveau, this brooch achieves the delicate colors and soft lines of nature with the dainty flowers and and curving enamel leaves so indicative of the period.

 

OSCAR HEYMAN Pavé Diamond ‘Buckle’ Ring – from Betteridge
Pavé diamond ‘buckle’ ring, designed as two interlocking scroll panels at top, set with 30 circular-cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.98 total carats, mounted in 18k yellow gold, numbered 22108, signed Oscar Heyman. Size 5.5.

I simply love this ring.  It’s simply, elegant design is perfect for everyday wear.

 

SEAMAN SCHEPPS Sapphire, Emerald & Diamond Sea Horse Brooch – from Camilla Dietz Bergeron

SEAMAN SCHEPPS Sapphire, Emerald & Diamond Sea Horse Brooch – from Camilla Dietz Bergeron
A Seaman Schepps 18 karat yellow and white gold, diamond, emerald and sapphire “sea horse brooch”. Signed Seaman Schepps 750 15346. The brooch is designed as a multi colored stone set sea horse. The mane is set with 10 graduated cabochon emeralds weighing a total of approximately 4.75 carats, the body is set with 28 sapphires weighing a total of approximately 8.50 carats, the 16 round brilliant cut diamonds and 4 tapered baguette shaped diamonds (20 diamonds) weigh a total of approximately 1.82 carats. The brooch has a gross weight of approximately 27.5 grams and measures 2 3/4 inches.

 

ANGELA CUMMINGS Pearl Choker with Gold & Diamond Butterfly – from Betteridge
5-strand pearl choker, with central butterfly motif in 18k yellow gold, accented by pavé-set diamonds, with 18k yellow gold hook clasp, the pearls measuring 4-5.5mm in diameter, circa 1982, designed by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co., circa 1982

Even though a lot Angela Cummings pieces were mass produced when at Tiffany & Co., her designs are very iconic and easily recognizable to any jewelry connoisseur.  I’m more familiar with her more geometric and modern designs and find this necklace particular charming and refreshing from what I’m used to seeing by her.  The open, airy gold and diamond butterfly is a fine match for the 5 strands of pearls, a lovely accessory for any elegant affair.

 

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Lotus Between-the-Finger Ring – from Betteridge

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Lotus Between-the-Finger Ring – from Betteridge
Lotus between-the-finger ring, accented by round brilliant cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.30 total carats, mounted in 18k white gold, signed “VCA” for Van Cleef & Arpels. Size 6 1/4 (53 – European).

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Lotus Between-the-Finger Ring – from Betteridge

The ultimate between-the-finger ring is Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lotus Ring.  Stylishly pretty and very unique, who could not want this ring to grace their delicate fingers?

 

Estate Jewelry: A Ballerina Dances, A Unicorn Prances & A Pair of Branches

$
0
0

This week’s assortment of estate jewelry was easy to select since there were so many terrific choices.  In light of this, I am very excited to share these jewels today, which include one of Van Cleef & Arpels’ elegant ballerinas, a fantastical unicorn brooch from Cartier, a pair of Suzanne Belperron’s foliate ‘Branche’ Brooches and more jewels by Hemmerle, René Boivin, Aldo Cipullo for Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co. and David Webb.

 

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Ballerina Brooch

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Ballerina Brooch – Yafa
Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Diamond, Sapphire & Chalcedony Ballerina Brooch. Signed and numbered.

Inspired by Louis Arpels’ love for the world of dance, the iconic Ballerina clips were first introduced by Van Cleef & Arpels in New York in the early 1940s.  Their graceful forms set with dazzling jewels, the Ballerinas were an immediate success with the firm’s American clientele.   Since the first set was introduced, Van Cleef & Arpels continues to create their ballerinas in different stones and balletic forms seen in this diamond, sapphire and chalcedony Ballerina brooch.  If you hadn’t noticed by my current header, I adore the Maison’s ballerinas, since I too love ballet, and couldn’t not choose to include this estate piece in today’s post.

To comment a bit about the dancers in my header, the one on the left is the Danseuse Espagnole clip from 1941, one of the earliest models; and the one on the right was designed by Maurice Duvalet in 1942 for the firm’s New York branch and manufactured by John Rubel Co.  Posed in arabesque, it depicts Maria Camargo, a Spanish star ballet dancer from the 18th century.  Christie’s lot notes on the brooch, from the October 2009 auction of Rare Jewels and Objets d’Art: A Superb Collection provide interesting insight to the notoriety of this ballerina:

Maria Camargo’s Paris Opéra debut occurred in 1726 in Les Caractères de la danse. Her career blossomed quickly into stardom; on one occasion, she received high praise for a spectacular impromptu solo when another dancer failed to enter on cue. Widely admired for her style, Camargo set the trends in shoes, hairstyles and clothing. Most notably, she was the first ballerina to shorten her skirt enough to permit intricate footwork, and her fitted underpinnings inspired the creation of modern-day tights.

 

CARTIER Lapis, Turquoise, and Diamond Unicorn Brooch

CARTIER Lapis, Turquoise, and Diamond Unicorn Brooch – Tenenbaum
This Cartier brooch features 4.7 carats of round brilliant-cut diamonds to compliment the turquoise and lapis. Set in 18k yellow gold, this brooch is a unique and whimsical piece. Signed Cartier. Circa 1960s

While I have seen several other unicorn brooches, mainly from David Webb (see his version further down), I have never seen a brooch from Cartier with such mythical whimsy to render this being.  The 1960s at Cartier saw many fanciful figurative jewels, such as a series of dragon clips (like this Gem-Set and Diamond ‘Dragon’ Brooch or this Diamond, Coral, & Emerald Dragon Pin) and the owl brooch series from the same period I mentioned last week in my post An Ode To Owls.  Similar in style and materials to the first dragon, the unicorn’s ornate diamond-embellished hooves and elegantly carved lapis lazuli wings add a bit of fantasy while alluding to the imaginitive legendary creatures from your favorite fairytale.

 

SUZANNE BELPERRON Pair of Sapphire ‘Branche’ Brooches

SUZANNE BELPERRON. Pair of Sapphire ‘Branche’ Brooches. – Symbolic & Chase
Each designed as a stylised foliate branch, one set with oval- and circular-shaped cabochon sapphires, the other with variously-shaped facetted sapphires within rectangular- and octagonal-shaped collet settings. Each accompanied by a certificate of authenticity by Belperron stating that each was made in Paris in the period 1932 – 1955 and the facetted sapphire brooch has partial maker’s marks for Societé Groené et Darde. Cf. Sylvie Raulet et Olivier Baroin, Suzanne Belperron, La Bibliothèque Des Arts 2001, Page 176 for a photo of a similar design. Circa 1940s.

Arguably one of the most important female jewelers of the 20th century, Suzanne Belperron never signed any of her pieces, insisting that “Mon style est ma signature.”  Her work during the 1930s and 1940s paved the way for more modern styles in fashion; she is considered by many to be as influential as Chanel, Schiaparelli and other fashion pioneers to the evolution of women’s fashion and jewelry design.  With inspirations from nature and ethnic sources, her distinctive, bold designs set with unusual, large stones were markers for her signature style.  She mixed semi precious stones with the most precious gems to produce sensuous jewels that gratified the senses with their curvaceous lines.  This pair of ‘Branche’ brooches, one set with sapphires en cabochon and the other conversely set with faceted sapphires, exhibit her imaginative genius and subtle style.  In keeping the design simple and feminine, she smartly expresses the foliate nature of the branch using basic geometric shapes with attenuated variations of the sapphire’s soft, muted blue hues.  Essentially, these brooches perfectly reflect Suzanne Belperron’s signature style.

 

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Red & White Coral Mushroom Brooch

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Red & White Coral Mushroom Brooch – Betteridge
Vintage mushroom brooch, designed as two mushrooms with carved white and red coral caps, with pave-set diamond accents in 18k white gold, the brooch mounted in 18k yellow gold, numbered 1K56-9, signed “VCA” for Van Cleef & Arpels.

One of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most prolific sources of inspiration is nature.  Since the 1920s, the Maison has continuously interpreted mother nature’s endless beauty with intricately designed jewels composed of unique combinations of materials that most closely reflect their real life counterparts.  This wonderfully detailed mushroom brooch is no exception, looking almost cartoonish in its realism.

HEMMERLE A Carved Cameo Necklace

HEMMERLE A Carved Cameo Necklace – FD Gallery
Designed as a series of graduated carved cameos alternating by carved gold plaques, signed Hemmerle, 750, 900, circa 1990.

As early as antiquity, cameos have been incorporated in jewelry.  In Ancient Rome, the family of Augustus particularly loved cameos evidenced by their many commissions for cameos, some of which are amongst the most famous from antiquity.  Since then, this delicate technique of carving stone has experienced periodic revivals, most notably in the early Renaissance and again in the 18th and 19th centuries.  The Victorian era saw the rise of using shell for the cameo’s medium instead of gem stones because they were easier to carve, plentiful in supply and inexpensive.  With the push for exploration during this period, new shell varieties often returned to Europe in the cargo from ships’ adventures:  helmet shells from the West Indies and queen conch shells from the Bahamas.  While shell cameos were preferable for daytime wear, more formal and pricier stone cameos were made from agate, onyx or sardonyx.  Historically, royals would often gift their subjects with agate portrait cameos.

The motif that is best associated with the cameo is the portrait.  Most portrait cameos depicted rulers or important dignitaries, while others illustrated a portrait of the idealized woman, or the ‘anonymous woman.’  The latter was mass produced thanks in part to the industrialization of the Victorian Era.  Not quite as ubiquitous but still harking back to its ancient origins, other popular cameo motifs included gods, goddess and well known scenes from Greek or Roman mythology.

Today, the cameo is still worn, just not as pervasively as in the past.  This Hemmerle necklace provides a creative, modern twist on the traditional cameo as it incorporates classical, scenic, object and portrait motifs in the alternating hard stone and gold cameos.  Not at all foreign to using cameos in their jewelry as seen in these cameo earrings (or these) and this cameo ring, Hemmerle cleverly brings an artistic edge to this age old style.

 

CARTIER ALDO CIPULLO A Gold ‘Nail’ Bracelet

CARTIER ALDO CIPULLO A Gold ‘Nail’ Bracelet – FD Gallery
Designed as a hinged nail bangle, in 18k yellow gold, large size, signed Cartier, A.Cipullo, circa 1971.

Recently relaunched by Cartier, the Juste un Clou (or “Just a nail”) bracelet has been a classic for the Maison ever since it was first introduced by the Italian designer Aldo Cipullo in 1971.  Also responsible for Cartier’s iconic Love bracelet, Aldo Cipullo wanted to create jewelry inspired by the everyday object.  Keeping the design raw, simple and fresh, this original ‘Nail’ Bracelet remains a much sought after staple for society’s most fashionably chic.

 

Large Gold & Gem-Set Owl Pin

Large Gold & Gem-Set Owl Pin – Betteridge
Large owl pin, with pavé yellow and white diamond wing, face and ears, the diamonds weighing approximately 4.26 total carats, with two marquise-shaped emerald eyes and cabochon-cut, pear-shaped emerald-accented branch, the emeralds weighing approximately 1.35 total carats, mounted in 18k yellow gold, with French hallmarks, signed AR.

I love owls and this brooch, so of course I had to include it in today’s estate jewelry post.  For more about this nocturnal creature in history and in jewelry, read my Ode to Owls post.

 

 Carved Moonstone ‘Man in the Moon’ Diamond Cluster Ring

Carved Moonstone ‘Man in the Moon’ Diamond Cluster Ring – A La Vieille Russie
Carved moonstone ‘Man in the Moon’ diamond cluster ring, set in a platinum mount. Circa 1910

Put simply, this ring is incredibly cool!  Hard to believe this was made back in 1910.

 

DAVID WEBB ‘Majestic Unicorn Brooch’

DAVID WEBB ‘Majestic Unicorn Brooch’ – Tenenbaum
A black enamel unicorn brooch in 18 karat yellow gold and platinum with diamonds and rubies. Approximate weight of the five pear-shaped rubies is 2.59cts. There are 156 diamonds weighing approximately 4.95cts total weight and are G-H in color and VS1-VS2 in clarity. Total weight is 67.8 grams. Signed: DAVID WEBB 18K PLAT. Circa 1980s

Speaking of unicorns, did I mention that David Webb was fond of them?

 

TIFFANY and CO. Penguin Gold Lapis And Diamond Brooch

TIFFANY and CO. Penguin Gold Lapis And Diamond Brooch – Antique Reflections
Lapis lazuli high quality penquin brooch embellished by 5.62 carats of g color high quality full cut diamonds with .4ct emerald eye and carved lapis lazuli body. Circa 1960s

This little guy is too cute.  Just like the Cartier owls and flying unicorn, this Tiffany & Co. penguin brooch was also produced during the whimsical 1960s.  The trend of using carved hard stone, in this case lapis lazuli, and lavish diamond and gold accents to form charming figurative brooches seems to have been quite popular throughout the jewelry world at this time.

 

RENE BOIVIN, Belle Epoque Diamond and Natural Pearl Pendant

RENE BOIVIN, Belle Epoque Diamond and Natural Pearl Pendant – Zeit
1890-1914
A magnificent Belle Epoque platinum, diamond, and natural pearl Pendant by Rene Boivin. Original fitted box.

What a stunning example of the Belle Époque period by one of the great master jewelers, René Boivin.  I will elaborate on the two subjects later this evening.

Estate Jewelry: Of Birds, Leaves & Miscellany

$
0
0

As the autumn leaves peak this weekend, resplendent in all their gloriously vibrant colors, it seems almost fitting that a few estate pieces I’ve selected for today were made in their image.  Bird brooches also appear to be popular motif in estate jewelry this week, so a few of those are included too. Strewn amongst the two themes are miscellaneous works by Boucheron, Sterlé, Schlumberger and Van Cleef & Arpels as well as a fabulous bombé ring and adorable Peking figure brooch from the 1950s.

 

Cushion-Cut & Pavé Diamond Bombé Cocktail Ring – Betteridge

Cushion-Cut & Pavé Diamond Bombé Cocktail Ring – Betteridge
Large diamond cocktail ring, centering on a cushion-cut diamond weighing 10.18 carats (GIA-certified: J-color and SI1-clarity), surrounded by a pavé-set diamond bombé, mounted in 18k yellow gold. Re-sizable.

 

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Gold & Diamond ‘Snowflake’ Necklace – Betteridge

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Gold & Diamond ‘Snowflake’ Necklace – Betteridge
Diamond “Snowflake” necklace, designed as an openwork bib necklace composed of a series of diamond-set ‘snowflake’ clusters, the clusters alternating with single circular-cut diamonds, each joined by knife-edge gold links, to a band of articulated circular-cut diamonds, the full necklace including 346 circular-cut diamonds weighing approximately 72.77 total carats, mounted in 18k yellow gold, numbered NY59139, signed Van Cleef & Arpels.

From autumn leaves to winter’s snow, Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Snowflake” necklace is the next season’s most appropriate accessory.  I look forward to winter just so I can see all the jewelers’ beautiful renditions of the snow flake, nature’s own precious crystal.

 

STERLE Gold & Pavé Diamond ‘Ribbon’ Twist Bangle – Betteridge

STERLE Gold & Pavé Diamond ‘Ribbon’ Twist Bangle – Betteridge
‘Ribbon’ twist bangle, set to the front with pavé diamond sections, mounted in 18k yellow gold, signed Sterle.

From Sotheby’s:

Pierre Sterlé (1905-1978) was introduced to the world of jewelry by his uncle and guardian who owned a shop on the rue de Castiglione in Paris. By the age of 29, his aptitude for jewelry design was such that he opened his own workshop on the rue Sainte Anne where, for the next several years, he designed and manufactured jewels for some of the leading houses in Paris including Boucheron, Chaumet and Ostertag. By 1945, he opened an elegant third-floor showroom on the avenue de l’Opera. Although Sterlé had many clients among the world’s most fashionable ladies, he remained a very personal jeweler who shunned showing his creations on street level, preferring to greet customers in the elite atmosphere of his salon.  Sterlé’s designs epitomized the dynamics of 1950s design and were wrought with great movement and energy. Whether executed in glittering diamonds or in “fil d’ange,” his trademark of gold rope fringes, his creations never failed to surprise and delight. In 1976, Sterlé closed his business and joined Chaumet where he lent his talent in designing modern pieces in the prevailing style.”

 French Gold Peking Figure Brooch, 1950s – Marie E. Bettely

French Gold Peking Figure Brooch, 1950s – Marie E. Betteley
The Chinese full-length figure with a textured robe and peaked hat in 18k gold, enhanced with a small turquoise, balancing two small bowls suspended from chains. Circa 1950s

 

BOUCHERON Rock Crystal, Onyx & Diamond Twin Ring – Betteridge

BOUCHERON Rock Crystal, Onyx & Diamond Twin Ring – Betteridge
Twin ring, one side set with carved, fluted rock crystal and the other with carved black onyx, accented by ten full-cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.54 total carats, mounted in 18k yellow gold, signed Boucheron.

 

TIFFANY & CO Carved Rock Crystal Leaf Earclips with Ruby Stem – Betteridge

TIFFANY & CO Carved Rock Crystal Leaf Earclips with Ruby Stem – Betteridge
Leaf earclips, composed of frosted rock crystal carved into a leaf motif, with square-cut ruby stem and single circular-cut diamond accent, mounted in 14k yellow gold, signed Tiffany & Co.

 

MAUBOUSSIN Diamond and Gem Set Stylized Mid-Century Bird Brooch – Macklowe Gallery

MAUBOUSSIN Diamond and Gem Set Stylized Mid-Century Bird Brooch – Macklowe Gallery
A Mid-century brooch in the shape of a bird sitting on a flowering branch by Mauboussin. The brooch has 62 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats, 16 blue sapphires with an approximate total weight of .75 carats and 5 rubies with an approximate total weight of .23 carats. Circa 1950s

 

BUCCELLATI Gold Leaf Cuff Bracelet – Betteridge

BUCCELLATI Gold Leaf Cuff Bracelet – Betteridge
Openwork leaf motif cuff bracelet, in hand-engraved, 18k yellow gold, with hinge on one side, signed Federico Buccellati Italy.

Renowned for their incredible skill in working with gold, Buccellati’s delicate attention to detail of the leaves in this cuff breath life into an otherwise inanimate object.  Every elegant curve of each leaf seems to mimic the path of a softly falling leaf as autumn slowly withers them away from their trees.

 

TIFFANY Kunzite and Diamond Bird on the Rock Brooch – Samual Saidian

TIFFANY Kunzite and Diamond Bird on the Rock Brooch – Samual Saidian
A spectacular Tiffany Schlumberger” bird on the rock”. Containing a superb Kunzite weighing aprox 55 carats. With original Tiffany box. 1970s

Originally designed in 1960s, the infamous “Bird on a Rock” setting by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. continues to embody the designer’s whimsical style.  After he placed the bird atop Tiffany’s most famous diamond, The Tiffany Yellow Diamond, the setting became and instant hit as well as iconic for the brand.  Equally stylish are the series of “Bird on a Rock” brooches set with more affordable stones, such as citrine, amethyst, aquamarine or kunzite, like this one.

 

SEAMAN SCHEPPS Citrine & Pearl Cluster Earrings with Diamond – Betteridge

SEAMAN SCHEPPS Citrine & Pearl Cluster Earrings with Diamond – Betteridge
Citrine and pearl cluster earclips, with circular-cut citrine and diamond accents, two of the larger citrines hand-carved in the shape of leaves, with omega clips and posts, mounted in 18k yellow gold, signed Seaman Schepps. 27mm approximate diameter.

Nothing says fall better than citrine carved in the shape of autumn leaves.  These ear clips are utterly perfect for the season!

 

CARTIER Owl Clip – Craig Evan Small

CARTIER Owl Clip – Craig Evan Small
This handsome fellow is covered with 4 carats of diamonds, with cabachon emerald eyes and on the ends of his perch. He is on a double clip for a coat or scarf, and the CARTIER signature and numbers are on a bar under the clip and were impossible to photograph! Circa 1950s-60s

Last but not least, another one of Cartier’s infamous owls rounds out today’s estate jewelry picks!

Van Cleef & Arpels Estate Jewelry Extravaganza

$
0
0

Yesterday, 1stdibs.com posted a seemingly endless array of Van Cleef & Arpels estate jewelry, the majority of which is a part of Macklowe Gallery’s selling exhibition - Van Cleef & Arpels:  Creativity and Innovation.  In light of this special event, 1stdibs.com has gathered estate jewelry by the renowned jewelry house from the other jewelry vendors on their site.  It’s quite a collection and one which I am delighted to share here!

 

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS World’s Fair Pin – Macklowe
A Retro 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with diamonds, rubies and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 48 round cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .48 carats, and 64 calibre and baguette cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 7.00 carats. The brooch is believed to have been a commemorative jewel made for the 1939 New York World’s Fair. Circa 1939.
Signed, Van Cleef & Arpels NY 22576 S.O.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ‘JOKER’ Whimsy Pins – Macklowe
A pair of French 18 karat gold and enamel clips with diamonds and coral beads by Van Cleef & Arpels. The clips have 12 round-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .30 carats, and 7 coral beads. The ruffs of the jester’s collars are articulated. Circa 1940’s.
Signed, 49134 Van Cleef & Arpels, 51657 VCA, French control marks.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS A Multi-Gem, Ivory and Gold ‘Elephant’ Bangle – FD Gallery
Designed as a carved ivory elephant with pear-shaped emerald eyes, gold tusk, a headdress of gold, accented by a cabochon ruby and circular-cut diamond with gold tassels, to the turquoise tail tip, braided in gold, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, NY, numbered 43368, accompanied by a certificate, circa 1973.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS A Pair of Aquamarine and Diamond Ear Clips – FD Gallery
Each designed as a cluster of circular-cut aquamarines, accented by circular-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered NY12592, circa 1947.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS An Emerald, Diamond and Gold Sautoir – FD Gallery
Decorated with a row of cabochon emeralds weighing approximately 97.19cts, within double frames of circular cut diamonds weighing approximately 116.50cts, alternating with florets of circular cut emeralds and diamonds, mounted in 18k gold, signed VCA NY and numbered 43703.4 1996, circa 1966. The total length of the necklace measures approximately 67cm. It can also be worn as three bracelets, each measures approximately 18, 21 and 22cm.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Important Mystery Set Sapphire Diamond Ring – FD Gallery
Designed with a central circular cut diamond, measuring approximately 6.00 carats, E-F color, SI2 clarity, to the mystery set sapphire surround, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, and numbered. Circa 1985

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS The Barbara Hutton Diamond Ruby Bracelet – Macklowe
A rare French mid-20th century 18 karat gold, platinum, ruby and diamond bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels. The bracelet features 24 cabochon rubies with an approximate total weight of 50.00 carats, and 336 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 26.50 carats that forms an Indian inspired paisley pattern. Provenance: The Estate of Barbara Hutton. Circa 1960’s.
Signed, Van Cleef & Arpels, VCA makers mark, French control marks for gold and silver. #78201.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Ruby Diamond Ring – Macklowe
A fantastic Indian-inspired 18 karat gold, ruby and diamond ring by Van Cleef & Arpels, featuring a center cabochon ruby with an approximate total weight of 3.75 carats, surrounded by 38 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.45 carats and 16 rubies of approximately 3.65 carats. Circa 1970’s.
Signed, “Van Cleef & Arpels NY 32651”.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ‘Lamballe’ Diamond & Pearl Drop Necklace – Betteridge
“Lamballe” diamond and pearl drop necklace, set with circular-cut diamonds weighing approximately 35.59 total carats and pear-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 3.59 total carats, mounted in 18k yellow gold, the necklace suspending five pear-shaped cultured pearl drops weighing approximately 85.65 total carats, numbered 142.743, signed Van Cleef & Arpels. 17″ approximate length.
The necklace was originally purchased on December 1st, 1995.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ‘Lamballe’ Diamond & Pearl Drop Earrings – Betteridge
“Lamballe” diamond and pearl drop earrings, set with circular-cut diamonds weighing approximately 5.92 total carats and pear-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 0.98 total carats, mounted in 18k yellow gold, suspending two pear-shaped cultured pearl drops weighing approximately 40.33 total carats, numbered 143.251, signed Van Cleef & Arpels. 2″ length.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Burmese 10.51 Carats Sapphire Diamond Ring – Betteridge
Sapphire and diamond ring in platinum, composed of a cushion-cut, Burmese sapphire weighing 10.51 carats (GRS-certified: natural, no indications of heat treatment, of Burmese origin), set with 18k yellow gold prongs, surrounded by circular-cut diamonds, signed ‘VCA’ for Van Cleef & Arpels. Re-sizable.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Sapphire & Diamond Chandelier Earrings – Betteridge
Sapphire and diamond chandelier earrings, set with four pear-shaped sapphires weighing approximately 18.15 total carats, accented by circular-cut and pear-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 17.23 total carats, mounted in 18k yellow gold, with clips and post backs, the drops detachable so that the surmounts can be worn separately, signed Van Cleef & Arpels. 2.25″ length.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Flower Blossom Necklace – Yafa

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Red & White Coral Mushroom Brooch – Betteridge
Vintage mushroom brooch, designed as two mushrooms with carved white and red coral caps, with pave-set diamond accents in 18k white gold, the brooch mounted in 18k yellow gold, numbered 1K56-9, signed “VCA” for Van Cleef & Arpels. Approximately 2.75″ in length and 1.5″ in width.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Coral Earrings – Yafa

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Coral Ballerina Pin – Yafa

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS A Coral, Lapis Lazuli and Diamond Sautoir – FD Gallery
Set with alternating coral and lapis lazuli links, and a circular-cut diamond center, suspending a similarly set star-shaped pendant; the necklace has two sections that may be removed to shorten the necklace or worn as one or two bracelets, the pendant is detachable and also may be worn as a brooch, signed Van Cleef & Arpels with French marks, circa 1975.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Box – Macklowe
A French Art Deco 18 karat gold and platinum box with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The box has 108 rose-cut diamonds. The curved edge box is enameled in a Persian Art Deco motif of intertwined hearts and flowers. The secret opening mechanism are two decorative milligrained set, rose diamond niche shaped plaques. Circa 1930.
Signed, Van Cleef & Arpels No. 29924 French and makers marks 7781.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Multi-Gem ‘Bird of Paradise’ Brooch – FD Gallery
With a detachable tail. Signed and numbered NY37994.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Gold Blossom Earclips – Macklowe
A pair of French 18 karat gold ear clips with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The earrings have 214 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 6.30 carats. The ear clips are composed of a layer of 10 diamond set leaves upon which 5 textured leaves rest, centering with a 7 diamond cluster. Circa 1970.
Signed, Van Cleef & Arpels M37207 French control marks VCA housemark.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Clown Pendant – Macklowe
A whimsical French mid-20th century 18 karat gold clown pendant with diamonds, emerald, rubies and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The pendant has 9 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .15 atw carats, , 2 cabochon rubies with an approximate weight of .10 carats, 2 cabochon sapphires with an approximate weight of .15 carats, and a cabochon emerald. The clown’s hands and feet are articulated. Circa 1950’s.
Signed, VCA 750 OR 750 S1532I French Control Marks (partial).

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Invisibly Set Ruby Diamond Bracelet – Yafa

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Invisibly Set Ruby And Diamond Flower Brooch – Simon Teakle
An invisibly set ruby and diamond brooch, of tulip design. The calibre cut ruby flower head with circular, baguette and marquise cut diamond detail, mounted in platinum, signed and numbered 30215 Van Cleef & Arpels New York

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Gem Set Gold Earclips – Macklowe
A pair of French mid-20th century 18 karat gold earrings with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The earrings have 6 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .52 carats, 20 round-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 1.60 carats, 12 round-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of .96 carats. The ear clips also convert and can be used as dress clips. In a conical hive three dimensional form composed of round balls. Circa 1960′s.
Signed, Van Cleef & Arpels 750 French Control Marks.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ‘Hawaii’ Gold Gem Set Bracelet – Macklowe
A French 18 karat gold bracelet with rubies, sapphires and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The bracelet is named “Lawn” and features bands of gold balls with “Hawaii” flowers that have 60 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 2.40 carats, 46 round-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 1.85 carats, and 25 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carats. Circa 1948.
Pictured in Van Cleef & Arpels, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli New York, 1987, page 236, Plate left photo.
Signed, Made in France Sold in USA #225011.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Pair of Diamond Ear Clips-Brooches – Symbolic & Chase
Each of ‘Tourbillon’ design, the stylised flower head composed of a central cluster of brilliant-cut diamonds, radiating swirls of baguette diamonds each accented with a brilliant-cut diamond, 1950s, signed Van Cleef & Arpels Made in France, numbered NY17909, with ear clip and brooch fittings, comprising 134 diamond estimated to weigh 12.00 carats in total.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Coral Pearl Ring – Macklowe
The “Twist” Ring. A French mid-20th century 18 karat gold ring with pearls and coral by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ring is set with alternating rows of pearls, corals and gold beads in a bombe shape. This ring was made with various hard stones, coral, lapis, or green agate. Circa. 1963. Pictured in Sylvie Raulet’s, Van Cleef & Arpels, page 145.
Signed, VCA 750 B5052 makers and control mark.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Coral and Pearl Bracelet – Macklowe
A French Estate 18 karat gold bracelet with coral and pearls by Van Cleef & Arpels. The bracelet is made up of strands of twisted coral, pearl and gold beads, the “Twist” bracelet. Circa 1960′s.
The “Twist” collection is discussed in Sylvie Raulet’s, Van Cleef & Arpels, page 144.
Signed, VCA 62 B9938 750 VCA/French marks.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Art Deco Box – Macklowe
An Art Deco 18 karat gold and enamel box by Van Cleef & Arpels. The box is covered with a blue and white geometric Art Deco enamel pattern. The interior of the box is fitted with a decorative panel which held in place objects inside the box. Circa 1930.
Signed, Van Cleef & Arpels Brevete S.G.D.G. 29976 Makers Mark 18.75.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Monumental Bird Pin – Macklowe
A monumental French mid-20th century 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds and rubies, malachite, onyx, mother of pearl and coral branch by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 10 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, a cabochon ruby, cut malachite, onyx and mother of pearl, and a coral branch. The brooch is in the form of a spread winged eagle sitting upon a coral branch. With signed Van Cleef & Arpels box. Circa 1960′s.
Signed, VCA 750 France NY43060.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Peridot Diamond Yellow Gold Earrings – Nadine Krakov Collection
Feminine and elegant clip-on earrings created by Van Cleef & Arpels, New York in the 1980′s. Timeless, VCA favorite floral motif, specially cut peridot, beautiful color combination – are the highlights of these lovely earrings.
Made of yellow gold, feature “flower” cut peridot , encrusted all over with finest diamonds.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Bangles – Macklowe
An exceptional set of French Estate 18 karat gold bracelets with white coral, lapis lazuli and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The set of bracelets is composed of one bracelet with swirl carved white coral with three gold and star set diamond sections with an approximate total weight of 3.60 carats, one bracelet with swirl carved lapis lazuli with three gold and star set diamond sections with an approximate total weight of 3.60 carats, and a third all 18 karat gold swirl bracelet with three gold and star set diamond sections with an approximate total weight of 3.60 carats. The approximate total diamond weight is 10.80 carats, F/G color, VS clarity. Circa 1974.
Signed, VCA 74, France 18 kt., House Mark, Gold Bangle: NY 44413 1.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Turquoise Diamond ‘Rose de Noel’ Pin – Yafa

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ‘LUDO’ Gold Diamond Retro Clips – Macklowe
A French Retro 18 karat gold and diamond pair of double clips “Ludo Hexagone” by Van Cleef & Arpels. The pair of double clips features 84 round-cut diamonds in a honeycomb and etched star pattern with an approximate total weight of 4.85 carats. Circa 1938.
Signed, Van Cleef & Arpels #46498 French control mark.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ‘LUDO’ Gold Diamond Retro Bracelet – Macklowe
A French Retro 18 karat gold and diamond “Ludo Hexagone” bracelet by
Van Cleef & Arpels. The bracelet features 172 round-cut diamonds set
in a honeycomb and etched star pattern with an approximate total
weight of 5.15 carats. Circa 1937

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ‘Tourbillion’ Gold Diamond Retro Ring – Macklowe
A French Retro 18 karat gold and platinum ring with diamonds by Van Cleef
& Arpels. The Tourbillion ring features a 48 round-cut diamonds that form
a swirl with a pave center with an approximate total weight of 2.90
carats. Circa 1951

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS DIamond Gold Earrings – Macklowe
A pair of French 18 karat yellow gold and platinum earrings with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The earrings have 84 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.20 carats. In a swirl motif. Circa 1950′s.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Retro Gold Diamond Bracelet Watch – Macklowe
A French Retro 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond Angel Hair bracelet
watch by Van Cleef & Arpels. The bracelet features a concealed watch with
a bombe dome of round-cut diamonds, further accented with diamonds on the
back of the watch and on the clasp of a button loupe closure. There are 66
round cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.35 carats. They
have a VS clarity and H/I color grade. The circular white face is signed
Le Coultre and is a backwind watch.
Circa 1940¹s.
Signed, Van Cleef & Arpels Made in France #520574.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Gold Diamond Blossom Pin – Macklowe
A French mid-20th century 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 36 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.90 carats. Circa 1960’s.
Signed, Van Cleef & Arpels 92582.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Ruby and Gold Dome Earrings – Botier
Chic and unusual diamond, ruby and 18K yellow gold dome earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1955. They feature very high grade round brilliant cut diamonds totaling approx. 2.5-3.0cts, along with rich red round cut rubies resting on top of them, totaling approx. 2.0-2.5cts. The earrings also offer a hidden post where a drop can be hung. Hallmarks: Van Cleef & Arpels, reference numbers, N.Y.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Gold Necklace – Macklowe
A very fine mid-20th century French 18 karat gold necklace with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The organically inspired necklace is completely articulated, and features 181 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 14.00 carats with a F/G color and VS clarity grade. Circa 1957.
Signed, Van Cleef & Arpels 78330 French Control Marks.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Ebony Ring – Macklowe
A French mid-20th century 18 karat gold, carved ebony and ivory ring by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ring has the scallop carving through the three materials to create a bombé shape and striking color combination. Circa 1960’s.
Signed, “VCA B5049D69”.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Spiral Brooch – Botier
Stunning diamond encrusted 18k white gold spiral brooch, by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch is set with approx. 2.75 carats of high grade white diamonds. The abstract spiral three-dimensional design offers a welcome change from the more usual brooch designs, and the way the design is made also doubles as a flower holder.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Cosmos Earclips – Betteridge
Large-size Cosmos earclips, with pavé-set diamonds and larger round brilliant cut diamond centers, the diamonds weighing approximately 6.80 total carats, mounted in 18k white gold, signed “VCA” for Van Cleef & Arpels. Comes with original earrings box. Dimensions: 1.1″ x 1.1″ (at widest points).

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Gold Necklace and Earrings – Sign Jewelry
Van Cleef & Arpels is renowned for their extraordinary taste in precious jewelry. From their Snow Flakes collection, this necklace and earring set is no exception.
Both pieces feature F VS quality diamonds that total 65 carats, are made from 18k yellow gold, and have the maker’s mark.
The earrings are stunning 2 inch long teardrops and the necklace, which measures 16 inches in length and a 12-26mm width, has rows of diamonds and flowers. This truly remarkable set is in excellent condition and will blow away all that look upon it.
This set is accompanied with a letter of authenticity from Van Cleef & Arpels.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Gold Ring – Macklowe
A French 18 karat gold ring with diamonds. The ring has 33 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.65 carats. In a five-sectioned diamond set “Watermelon” domed ring. Circa 1960′s.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Gold Diamond Ruby Bracelet – Macklowe
A French mid-20th century 18 karat gold bracelet with ruby and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The bracelet features a cabochon ruby with an approximate total weight of 3.61 carats, and 23 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.20 carats. The bracelet is composed of woven gold links in a modified buckle motif. Circa 1957.
Signed, Van Cleef & Arpels 750 #77481 French control marks.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Gold and Lapis Lazuli Cufflinks – Macklowe
A French pair of mid-20th century 18 karat gold cufflinks with lapis lazuli by Van Cleef & Arpels. The cufflinks have a lapis lazuli base with an applied relief set of scales surrounded by a rope bezel. The astrological sign for Libra ( sept 23-Oct 22). From a Collection of astrological signed cuff links. Circa 1960’s.
Signed, 12V438-3 VCA.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Gold Lace Pin 1949 – Yafa
Rare VAN CLEEF & ARPELS New York diamond Gold Lace pin 1949, from a collection as described in ”Set in Style” The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, chapter by Suzy Menkes, Smithsonian

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – Macklowe
A whimsical American mid-20th century 18 karat gold and platinum cat brooch with diamonds and emeralds by Van Cleef & Arpels/New York. The brooch has 10 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .20 carat, and 2 round-cut emerald eyes that have the approximate total weight of .10 carat. The brooch is accented with a black enamel nose and pink enamel tongue. Circa 1960′s.
Signed, VCA 1L99-6.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Poodle Pin – Macklowe
An American mid-20th century 18 karat gold brooch with sapphire by Van Cleef & Arpels. The poodle dog brooch has one cabochon sapphire eye with an approximate total weight of .02 carats, and a spring articulated tail. Circa 1960’s.
Signed, VCA NY 18 kt IK 26 6.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Pussy Cat Gold Pin – Macklowe
A whimsical Mid-Century cat, 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with
diamonds and emeralds by Van Cleef & Arpels/New York. The brooch has 10
round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .20 carat, and
2 round-cut emerald eyes that have the approximate total weight of .10
carat. The brooch is accented with a black enamel nose and pink enamel
tongue.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Leopard Pin – Macklowe
A French mid-20th century 18 karat gold leopard brooch with diamonds, emeralds and black onyx accents, by Van Cleef & Arpels. The body of the leopard features 230 pavé round cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.70 carats, and 2 round-cut emerald eyes with an approximate total weight of .10 carat. The spots of the leopard are round-cut black onyx with a black enamel nose. The leopard is portrayed lazing on a tree limb, with an articulated left paw and tail. This whimsical piece is finished with a heart shaped black enamel nose. (This jewel comes with its original VCA box.) Circa 1960’s.
Signed, Van Cleef & Arpels M33678 OR 750 French control mark.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Panda Climbing Bamboo Pin – Macklowe
A whimsical French Estate 18 karat gold, diamond and black enamel panda brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch features a black enamel panda bear clinging to a bamboo tree, decorated with 64 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats. Circa 1987.
Signed, “VCA IK418-2”.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Gold, Enamel & Diamond Bulldog Pin – Betteridge
“The Toff” bulldog pin, designed as a whimsical, British bulldog, analogous to Winston Churchill, with white enameled wingtip collar and black enameled bow tie, circular-cut ruby eyes and gold chained, circular-cut diamond monocle, mounted in 18k yellow gold, with double pin stem in 18k yellow gold at back, numbered 77.551, signed Van Cleef & Arpels. 35mm length and 28mm width at widest point.

 

 

A Dozen Jeweled Roses On Valentine’s Day

$
0
0

Happy Valentine’s Day everyone!  For those who enjoy a rose of a different kind, here is a dozen jeweled roses to celebrate this amorous day!

HARRY WINSTON ''Rose of England'' Diamond Brooch - 1stdibs JAR. A Fire Opal and Ruby 'Rose Bud' Bracelet. - 1stdibs PINK DIAMOND AND COLOURED DIAMOND 'ROSE' BROOCH - Sotheby's PLATINUM, CARVED IVORY, DIAMOND, CARVED CORAL AND ENAMEL FLOWER BROOCH, CARTIER, PARIS, CIRCA 1940 - Sotheby's RUBY AND DIAMOND ROSE BROOCH, CIRCA 1940 - Sothebys' RUBY AND DIAMOND 'ROSE' BROOCH, MICHELE DELLA VALLE - Sotheby's VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Magnificent Canary Yellow Diamond Rose Pin - 1stdibs 18 KARAT GOLD, PLATINUM, CORAL AND DIAMOND 'FLOWER' BROOCH, DAVID WEBB - Sotheby's 18 KARAT TWO-COLORED GOLD AND COLORED DIAMOND ROSE BROOCH, SABADDINI, MILAN - Sotheby's AN ART DECO DIAMOND ROSE BROOCH, BY LACLOCHE - Christie's AN IMPRESSIVE RUBY AND TITANIUM 'ROSE' BROOCH, BY MICHELE DELLA VALLE - Christie's CORAL AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CARTIER, CIRCA 1960 - Sotheby's

A Is For Amethyst – February’s Birthstone

$
0
0

A long-favored gemstone from as far back as the ancient Egyptians, the amethyst continues to endure as the go-to purple gemstone.  For centuries, people have believed this mystical stone possesses healing power:  the Greeks believed it to prevent intoxication while Europeans wore their amethyst amulets for protection and to keep them cool-headed.  Even the word “amethyst” derives from the Greek word “amethystos,” which translates to “not drunken.”

“According to a 16th century French poem, Dionysus, the god of intoxication, of wine, and grapes was pursuing a maiden named Amethystos, who refused his affections. Amethystos prayed to the gods to remain chaste, a prayer which the goddess Artemis answered, transforming her into a white stone. Humbled by Amethystos’s desire to remain chaste, Dionysus poured wine over the stone as an offering, dyeing the crystals purple.” (source)

As one of the 12 stones to adorn the breastplate of the high priests of Yahweh listed in the Bible, amethyst was thought to encourage piety and symbolize piety, making it an important and favorite stone for ecclesiastical ornaments of the Catholic church during the Middle Ages.  It was so often used in Episcopal rings that the amethyst earned the moniker “the Bishop’s Stone.”

18K yellow gold and amethyst, Victorian bishop’s ring. Hidden inner ring, made of silver, reveals a stalking golden wolf.

18K yellow gold and amethyst, Victorian bishop’s ring. Hidden inner ring, made of silver, reveals a stalking golden wolf.

What makes the amethyst particularly fitting as February’s birthstone is its close association with Saint Valentine, who is said to have always worn it.

“Up until the 18th century, amethyst was included in the cardinal, or most valuable, gemstones (along with diamond, sapphire, ruby, and emerald). However, since the discovery of extensive deposits in locations such as Brazil, it has lost most of its value.

Collectors look for depth of color, possibly with red flashes if cut conventionally.

The highest grade amethyst (called “Deep Russian”) is exceptionally rare and therefore, when one is found, its value is dependent on the demand of collectors. It is, however, still orders of magnitude lower than the highest grade sapphires or rubies (padparadscha sapphire or “pigeon’s blood” ruby).” (source)

An Impressive Antique Siberian Amethyst and Demantoid Garnet Rose Gold Pendant Necklace made in Moscow between 1908 and 1917 Three deep velvet purple Siberian amethysts, sixteen Ural demantoids, 56 zolotnik rose and yellow gold (14K-583)  The biggest amethyst is approximately 35 ct. ( 20.7 x 17.9 mm)

An Impressive Antique Siberian Amethyst and Demantoid Garnet Rose Gold Pendant Necklace
made in Moscow between 1908 and 1917
Three deep velvet purple Siberian amethysts, sixteen Ural demantoids, 56 zolotnik rose and yellow gold
The biggest amethyst is approximately 35 ct. ( 20.7 x 17.9 mm)

Amethyst occurs in transparent gem grades, as well as in more translucent material, which is used for carvings and beads. Found in great abundance in Brazil and Uruguay, other sources of the stone include South Korea, Russia, Zambia, and the United States. Interestingly, Maissau, Lower Austria is host to the largest opencast amethyst vein in the world.

“The color of amethyst ranges from a very light lilac to overly dark material. Prices generally are lower for very light or very dark material. The lighter material is often described as “Rose de France.” Amethyst may have a strong secondary red or blue color component. Deep colored material with either red or blue flashes is sometimes referred to as “Siberian Amethyst.” This generally is a color description, and does not imply that the material is actually from Siberia, although some of the Russian material does exhibit this desirable color.” (source)

Photo courtesy of Antero Jewelers

Photo courtesy of Antero Jewelers

Whether cherished for its mystical powers or for its glowing purple hues, the amethyst remains a popular stone in jewelry.  For today’s post, I will highlight some of the more important and finest jewelry featuring amethysts, some of which are currently available on the market.

Note:  Images are back-linked to original source; so, if you’re interested in one of the items available for purchase, just click on the photo!

Draperie necklace, Cartier Paris, 1947. Twisted gold, platinum, briliant and baguette-sized diamonds, a heart-shaped amethyst, 27 emerlad-sized amethysts and one facetted oval-shaped and turquoise cabochons. Designed and made to an order from the Duke of Windsor, who provided all gemstones apart from the turquoise. N.Welsh, Collection Cartier © Cartier. - Photo c/o French Vogue

Draperie necklace, Cartier Paris, 1947. Twisted gold, platinum, briliant and baguette-sized diamonds, a heart-shaped amethyst, 27 emerlad-sized amethysts and one facetted oval-shaped and turquoise cabochons. Designed and made to an order from the Duke of Windsor, who provided all gemstones apart from the turquoise. N.Welsh, Collection Cartier © Cartier. – Photo c/o French Vogue

SUZANNE BELPERRON 'Grape' Brooch - 1stdibs via FD

SUZANNE BELPERRON ‘Grape’ Brooch – available on 1stdibs via FD Gallery
Suzanne Belperron ‘Grape’ brooch in amethyst and gold. Yellow gold mounting set with 15 oval amethysts in various shades and sizes, partially effaced marker’s mark for Societe Groene et Darde and the Parisian assay mark for gold. Measuring approximately 6.2cm wide by 9.3cm long, manufactured in Paris by the company B.Herz, circa 1936.

Hemmerle earrings in white gold, copper, amethyst and purple sapphire - photo c/o Hemmerle

Hemmerle earrings in white gold, copper, amethyst and purple sapphire – photo c/o Hemmerle

18 KARAT GOLD, DIAMOND AND AMETHYST 'BOTTICELLI' NECKLACE, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS - Sold at Sotheby's New York in October 2009 for $194,500 USD

18 KARAT GOLD, DIAMOND AND AMETHYST ‘BOTTICELLI’ NECKLACE, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – Sold at Sotheby’s New York in October 2009 for $194,500 USD

Verdura 'Candy' Amethyst Ring with Turquoise - available at Betteridge

Verdura ‘Candy’ Amethyst Ring with Turquoise – available at Betteridge

AN IMPRESSIVE AMETHYST, DIAMOND AND TURQUOISE NECKLACE, BY CARTIER - Sold at Christie's New York in October 2008 for $110,500 USD

AN IMPRESSIVE AMETHYST, DIAMOND AND TURQUOISE NECKLACE, BY CARTIER – Sold at Christie’s New York in October 2008 for $110,500 USD

Cartier Diamond, Ruby & Amethyst 'Orchid' Earrings - Sold at Betteridge

Cartier Diamond, Ruby & Amethyst ‘Orchid’ Earrings – Sold at Betteridge

Verdura 'Five Stone' Lavender Amethyst & Mammoth Ivory Cuff - available at Betteridge

Verdura ‘Five Stone’ Lavender Amethyst & Mammoth Ivory Cuff – available at Betteridge

HEMMERLE Amethyst and Sapphire Ear Pendants - available on 1stdibs via FD Hemmerle, An Amethyst and Sapphire Ear Pendant, designed with a central amethyst, one weighing 40.59cts, one weighing 43.04cts, accented by 102 sapphires weighing 5.33cts, mounted in black finished silver and white gold.

HEMMERLE Amethyst and Sapphire Ear Pendants – available on 1stdibs via FD Gallery
Hemmerle, An Amethyst and Sapphire Ear Pendant, designed with a central amethyst, one weighing 40.59cts, one weighing 43.04cts, accented by 102 sapphires weighing 5.33cts, mounted in black finished silver and white gold.

AMETHYST, RUBY AND GARNET 'VIOLET' BROOCH, RENÉ BOIVIN, CIRCA 1950 -  Sold at Sotheby's New York in December 2007 for $73,000

AMETHYST, RUBY AND GARNET ‘VIOLET’ BROOCH, RENÉ BOIVIN, CIRCA 1950 – Sold at Sotheby’s New York in December 2007 for $73,000

Bielka 'Fandango' 18k Gold & Amethyst Ring - available at Betteridge "Fandango" cocktail ring in handcrafted 18k yellow gold, accented by round-cut amethyst. Handcrafted in New York City. Designed by Robert Bielka. Size 5.75 (re-sizable).

Bielka ‘Fandango’ 18k Gold & Amethyst Ring – available at Betteridge
“Fandango” cocktail ring in handcrafted 18k yellow gold, accented by round-cut amethyst. Handcrafted in New York City. Designed by Robert Bielka. Size 5.75 (re-sizable).

AMETHYST AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, CIRCA 1900 - Sold at Sotheby's New York in December 2007 for $115,000 USD

AMETHYST AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, CIRCA 1900 – Sold at Sotheby’s New York in December 2007 for $115,000 USD

ALETTO BROS Ruby Diamond Amethyst Earrings - availabe on 1stdibs via Fourtune Aletto Bros. Ruby, Diamond and Amethyst earrings in platinum and 18k yellow gold. The earrings measure 1-1/4 inches in diameter, handmade into an absolutely lovely flower design. Seldom do we see Amethyst so artfully cut, beautiful in their enchanting orchid shade of purple! Overall a gorgeous combination, truly beautiful and unique flower motif earrings by a very chic fashion house.

ALETTO BROS Ruby Diamond Amethyst Earrings – availabe on 1stdibs via Fourtune
Aletto Bros. Ruby, Diamond and Amethyst earrings in platinum and 18k yellow gold. The earrings measure 1-1/4 inches in diameter, handmade into an absolutely lovely flower design. Seldom do we see Amethyst so artfully cut, beautiful in their enchanting orchid shade of purple! Overall a gorgeous combination, truly beautiful and unique flower motif earrings by a very chic fashion house.

A HISTORIC PAIR OF 18TH CENTURY AMETHYST AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS - Sold at Christie's Geneva in November 2007 for $386,936 USD Originally part of The Imperial Russian Jewels

A HISTORIC PAIR OF 18TH CENTURY AMETHYST AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS – Sold at Christie’s Geneva in November 2007 for $386,936 USD
Originally part of The Imperial Russian Jewels

An Amethyst, Enamel and Silver Ring, by Boivin, circa 1930 - available at FD

An Amethyst, Enamel and Silver Ring, by Boivin, circa 1930 – available at FD Gallery

GOLD, PLATINUM, AMETHYST AND DIAMOND PENDANT-BROOCH, TIFFANY & CO., CIRCA 1900 - Sold at Sotheby's New York in December 2011 for $86,600

GOLD, PLATINUM, AMETHYST AND DIAMOND PENDANT-BROOCH, TIFFANY & CO., CIRCA 1900 – Sold at Sotheby’s New York in December 2011 for $86,600

Paolo Costagli 'Florentine' Amethyst & Ruby Drop Earrings - available at Betteridge

Paolo Costagli ‘Florentine’ Amethyst & Ruby Drop Earrings – available at Betteridge

PLATINUM, AMETHYST, TURQUOISE AND DIAMOND FLOWER BROOCH, VERDURA, CIRCA 1949 - Sold at Sotheby's New York in April 2012 for $43,750

PLATINUM, AMETHYST, TURQUOISE AND DIAMOND FLOWER BROOCH, VERDURA, CIRCA 1949 – Sold at Sotheby’s New York in April 2012 for $43,750

Verdura 'Caged' Lavender Amethyst Ring - available at Betteridge

Verdura ‘Caged’ Lavender Amethyst Ring – available at Betteridge

ALETTO BROS Diamond Amethyst Serpent Earrings - available on 1stdibs via Gallery47 Bold Aletto Brothers earrings with large amethyst cabochons surrounded by 18KT gold serpents set with diamonds.

ALETTO BROS Diamond Amethyst Serpent Earrings – available on 1stdibs via Gallery47
Bold Aletto Brothers earrings with large amethyst cabochons surrounded by 18KT gold serpents set with diamonds.

VIOLET SAPPHIRE, AMETHYST AND DIAMOND BROOCH, MEISTER - Sold at Sotheby's Geneva in November 2011 for 35,000 CHF

VIOLET SAPPHIRE, AMETHYST AND DIAMOND BROOCH, MEISTER – Sold at Sotheby’s Geneva in November 2011 for 35,000 CHF

An Art Deco Amethyst and Emerald Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels - Sold at FD

An Art Deco Amethyst and Emerald Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels – Sold at FD Gallery

AN ANTIQUE AMETHYST PENDANT NECKLACE - Sold at Christie's New York in October 2007 for $15,000 USD

AN ANTIQUE AMETHYST PENDANT NECKLACE – Sold at Christie’s New York in October 2007 for $15,000 USD

Verdura 'Caged' Amethyst & 18k Gold Earclips - available at Betteridge

Verdura ‘Caged’ Amethyst & 18k Gold Earclips – available at Betteridge

Bulgari. High Jewellery ring in yellow gold with 1 cabochon amethyst, 38 calibrated cabochon emeralds, 2 round brilliant cut diamonds and pavé diamonds. Photo c/o The Jewellery Editor

Bulgari. High Jewellery ring in yellow gold with 1 cabochon amethyst, 38 calibrated cabochon emeralds, 2 round brilliant cut diamonds and pavé diamonds. Photo c/o The Jewellery Editor

18 KARAT WHITE GOLD, AMETHYST AND DIAMOND BRACELET, ALETTO BROTHERS - Sold at Sotheby's New York in September 2007 for $37,500 USD

18 KARAT WHITE GOLD, AMETHYST AND DIAMOND BRACELET, ALETTO BROTHERS – Sold at Sotheby’s New York in September 2007 for $37,500 USD

Seaman Schepps 18k Gold & Cabochon Amethyst 'Elbow' Ring - available at Betteridge

Seaman Schepps 18k Gold & Cabochon Amethyst ‘Elbow’ Ring – available at Betteridge

AMETHYST AND DIAMOND BROOCH, RUSSIAN, LATE 19TH CENTURY - Sold at Sotheby's Geneva in November 2011 for 17,500 CHF

AMETHYST AND DIAMOND BROOCH, RUSSIAN, LATE 19TH CENTURY – Sold at Sotheby’s Geneva in November 2011 for 17,500 CHF

A Pair of Amethyst, Emerald and Ruby Ear Clips, by JAR - available at FD

A Pair of Amethyst, Emerald and Ruby Ear Clips, by JAR – available at FD Gallery

Cartier Amethyst & Diamond Cocktail Ring - Sold at Betteridge

Cartier Amethyst & Diamond Cocktail Ring – Sold at Betteridge

 

AMETHYST AND DIAMOND BROOCH - PENDANT, PAULDING FARNHAM FOR TIFFANY & CO, CIRCA 1890 - Sold at Sotheby's London in December 2010 for 15,000 GBP

AMETHYST AND DIAMOND BROOCH – PENDANT, PAULDING FARNHAM FOR TIFFANY & CO, CIRCA 1890 – Sold at Sotheby’s London in December 2010 for 15,000 GBP

An Amethyst, Onyx and Gold Necklace and Ear Pendants, by Aldo Cipullo, circa 1970 - Sold at FD

An Amethyst, Onyx and Gold Necklace and Ear Pendants, by Aldo Cipullo, circa 1970 – Sold at FD Gallery

AMETHYST AND DIAMOND BROOCH-PENDANT, LATE 19TH CENTURY - Sold at Sotheby's Geneva in May 2011 for 30,000 CHF

AMETHYST AND DIAMOND BROOCH-PENDANT, LATE 19TH CENTURY – Sold at Sotheby’s Geneva in May 2011 for 30,000 CHF

Verdura 'Wrapped' Lavender Amethyst & Diamond Earrings - available at Betteridge

Verdura ‘Wrapped’ Lavender Amethyst & Diamond Earrings – available at Betteridge

DAVID WEBB Enamel Amethyst & Diamond Cuff Bracelet - available on 1stdibs via Samuel Saidian A stylish David Webb cuff bracelet. Consisting of a large cushion cut amethyst surrounded by diamonds. Mounted on 18 KT Gold, Platinum and black enamel. Signed DAVID WEBB 18K PT. Accompanied by certificate of authenticity.

DAVID WEBB Enamel Amethyst & Diamond Cuff Bracelet – available on 1stdibs via Samuel Saidian
A stylish David Webb cuff bracelet. Consisting of a large cushion cut amethyst surrounded by diamonds. Mounted on 18 KT Gold, Platinum and black enamel. Signed DAVID WEBB 18K PT. Accompanied by certificate of authenticity.

Bulgari 'Mediterranean Eden' Amethyst Ring with Diamond - available at Betteridge

Bulgari ‘Mediterranean Eden’ Amethyst Ring with Diamond – available at Betteridge

18 KARAT GOLD AND AMETHYST NECKLACE, BULGARI - Sold at Sotheby's New York in February 2013 for $16,250 USD

18 KARAT GOLD AND AMETHYST NECKLACE, BULGARI – Sold at Sotheby’s New York in February 2013 for $16,250 USD

Lush Chandelier Earrings from the Georgian Era - available on 1stdibs via Glorious Antique Jewelry This pair of extravagant chandelier earrings were chosen to be featured in "In New York" . The warm gold and the foiled amethysts are vibrant yet, at the same time, soft in tone as only natural aging can accomplish. The high karat gold is engraved using the repousse method in which the gold is pushed out from the back resulting in the appearance of volume and dimension. Earrings such as these from the early 19th century are generally light on the ear. They are a celebration of color and design to be enjoyed with every wearing. The length is 2 1/2 in. The width is 1/2 in.

Lush Chandelier Earrings from the Georgian Era – available on 1stdibs via Glorious Antique Jewelry
This pair of extravagant chandelier earrings were chosen to be featured in “In New York” . The warm gold and the foiled amethysts are vibrant yet, at the same time, soft in tone as only natural aging can accomplish. The high karat gold is engraved using the repousse method in which the gold is pushed out from the back resulting in the appearance of volume and dimension. Earrings such as these from the early 19th century are generally light on the ear. They are a celebration of color and design to be enjoyed with every wearing. The length is 2 1/2 in. The width is 1/2 in.

Delightful OSCAR HEYMAN BROS. Pansy Pin - 1stdibs via Shreve Crump & Low Oscar Heyman Brothers has been a part of the unique history and luxury of Shreve Crump & Low for many years. This beautiful pansy pin exemplifies the fine workmanship of this designer. The pin is crafted in Platinum and 18 karat yellow gold consisting of 38 round brilliant cut diamonds weighing 1.23 carats, 9 sapphires weighing 4.90 carats, 11 amethysts weighing 4.78 carats and 5 purple sapphires weighing .44 carats. Signed Oscar Heyman

Delightful OSCAR HEYMAN BROS. Pansy Pin – 1stdibs via Shreve Crump & Low
Oscar Heyman Brothers has been a part of the unique history and luxury of Shreve Crump & Low for many years. This beautiful pansy pin exemplifies the fine workmanship of this designer. The pin is crafted in Platinum and 18 karat yellow gold consisting of 38 round brilliant cut diamonds weighing 1.23 carats, 9 sapphires weighing 4.90 carats, 11 amethysts weighing 4.78 carats and 5 purple sapphires weighing .44 carats. Signed Oscar Heyman

A Belle Epoque Amethyst and Diamond Ring, by Bailey Banks & Biddle, circa 1910 - Sold at FD

A Belle Epoque Amethyst and Diamond Ring, by Bailey Banks & Biddle, circa 1910 – Sold at FD Gallery

RENE BOIVIN Amethyst Gold Link Bracelet - available on 1stdibs via Botier Rare and unusual 18K yellow gold and amethyst link bracelet by Rene Boivin. It features high grade amethyst of approx. 4.2cts total weight.

RENE BOIVIN Amethyst Gold Link Bracelet – available on 1stdibs via Botier
Rare and unusual 18K yellow gold and amethyst link bracelet by Rene Boivin. It features high grade amethyst of approx. 4.2cts total weight.

Mimi So Switch Amethyst Faceted Ring - available at Mimi So

Mimi So Switch Amethyst Faceted Ring – available at Mimi So

CARTIER Gold Amethyst Diamond Ear Clips - available on 1stdibs via Gallery47 Bold Cartier ear clips of 18K gold with large (and removable) center stones of carved amethyst, complimented by radiating channels of diamonds. Gold and registry marks, and Cartier mark.

CARTIER Gold Amethyst Diamond Ear Clips – available on 1stdibs via Gallery47
Bold Cartier ear clips of 18K gold with large (and removable) center stones of carved amethyst, complimented by radiating channels of diamonds. Gold and registry marks, and Cartier mark.

TIFFANY Donald Claflin Amethyst Diamond Emerald Brooch - available on 1stdibs via Cohen and Pariser, Ltd

TIFFANY Donald Claflin Amethyst Diamond Emerald Brooch – available on 1stdibs via Cohen and Pariser, Ltd

 

 

Just A Jeweled Fly On The Wall & Other Estate Jewelry Finds This Week

$
0
0

A jeweled fly is one you would never swat and the Van Cleef & Arpels’ rendition is eternally charming.  Along with the little delicate insect are a pair of gorgeous Cartier “Orchid” earrings, vibrantly inlaid with diamond, ruby and amethyst, and a darling pair of yellow gold peonies earclips.  But that’s not all, keep scrolling down to see the rest of the estate jewelry treasures!

Note:  All photos are back-linked to the original site; so if you’re interested in purchasing, just click the photo!

 

Van Cleef & Arpels Gold, Diamond, Emerald, & Citrine Fly Pin

VAN CLEEF and ARPELS Gold, Diamond, Emerald, & Citrine Fly Pin - available on 1stdibs via Tenenbaum & Co. VAN CLEEF and ARPELS 18KT yellow gold, diamond, cabochon emerald and citrine fly pin. French Hallmarks.

VAN CLEEF and ARPELS Gold, Diamond, Emerald, & Citrine Fly Pin – available on 1stdibs via Tenenbaum & Co.
VAN CLEEF and ARPELS 18KT yellow gold, diamond, cabochon emerald and citrine fly pin. French Hallmarks.

 

Cartier Diamond, Ruby & Amethyst “Orchid” Earrings

Cartier Diamond, Ruby & Amethyst 'Orchid' Earrings - Sold at Betteridge

Cartier Diamond, Ruby & Amethyst ‘Orchid’ Earrings – Sold at Betteridge
“Orchid” earrings, with delicate openwork gem-set petals, the petals set with round-cut diamonds and fancy-cut rubies and amethysts, the diamonds weighing 1.54 total carats, mounted in 18k white gold, with omega-style clips and posts, circa 2005, numbered 95438A, signed Cartier. 27mm length and 26mm width.

 

Peonies Earrings

Peonies Earrings - available on 1stdibs via Rebecca Koven A pair of 18kt yellow gold Peonies earrings.

Peonies Earrings – available on 1stdibs via Rebecca Koven
A pair of 18kt yellow gold Peonies earrings.

Cartier Pink Sapphire & Diamond “Saison” Brooch

Cartier Pink Sapphire & Diamond "Saison" Brooch - available at Betteridge "Saison" scroll brooch, set with a cushion-cut pink sapphire weighing 9.64 carats (approximate dimensions: 15 x 13mm), accented by 156 circular-cut diamonds weighing 2.96 total carats and 10 circular-cut pink sapphires weighing 2.64 total carats, mounted in platinum and 18k white gold, circa 2004, numbered 32359A, signed Cartier. 3.30" length (approximately 84mm) and 2.05" width (approximately 52mm). Comes with Cartier insurance appraisal dated April 18th, 2012, denoting the estimated current retail as $220,000.

Cartier Pink Sapphire & Diamond “Saison” Brooch – available at Betteridge
“Saison” scroll brooch, set with a cushion-cut pink sapphire weighing 9.64 carats (approximate dimensions: 15 x 13mm), accented by 156 circular-cut diamonds weighing 2.96 total carats and 10 circular-cut pink sapphires weighing 2.64 total carats, mounted in platinum and 18k white gold, circa 2004, numbered 32359A, signed Cartier. 3.30″ length (approximately 84mm) and 2.05″ width (approximately 52mm).
Comes with Cartier insurance appraisal dated April 18th, 2012, denoting the estimated current retail as $220,000.

 

Cartier 18k White Gold & Diamond “Boudoir” Earclips

Cartier 18k White Gold & Diamond "Boudoir" Earclips - available at Betteridge "Boudoir" earclips, designed as a bezel-set and pavé diamond swirl motif, with 84 diamonds weighing approximately 4.73 total carats, mounted in 18k white gold, with omega-style clip backs, numbered 39717A, signed Cartier. 1.34" length (approximately 34mm) and 0.75" width (approximately 19mm).

Cartier 18k White Gold & Diamond “Boudoir” Earclips – available at Betteridge
“Boudoir” earclips, designed as a bezel-set and pavé diamond swirl motif, with 84 diamonds weighing approximately 4.73 total carats, mounted in 18k white gold, with omega-style clip backs, numbered 39717A, signed Cartier. 1.34″ length (approximately 34mm) and 0.75″ width (approximately 19mm).

 

Buccellati Handmade Diamond Bands

Buccellati Handmade Diamond Bands - available on 1stdibs via Steven Fox Jewelry This trilogy of handmade Mario Buccellati signed bands represent the history of one of the world's master jewelers who was dubbbed, by the eighteenth century poet Gabriele D'Annuzio, as the "Prince of Goldsmiths". Known for his nature inspired pierced and honeycombed leaves and flowers, these Buccellati rings are so delicately crafted that they resemble fine lace and spun gold. Pick one or all three of these rings which each consist of an inner band of webbed and filigreed 18K white gold with textured edges outlined in 18K yellow gold. Micro set diamonds are scattered throughout the entire surface of each ring. A. Top band features a geometric lace design with center diamond shaped motifs. Diamond weight approx. 1.10 carats. Price: $9,400.00. Size: 5 3/4". Width: 9 3/4MM or approx. 3/8". Ref: 13478  B. Middle band features a geometric lace design with round center diamonds for a total weight of approx. .60 carats. Price: $9,750. Size: 5 3/4". Width: 9MM for approx. 3/8" Ref: 13429. C. Bottom band features a lace foliate design. Diamond weight approx. .55 carats. Price: $8,850.00. Size: 6 1/4". Width: 9 1/2 MM or approx. 3/8" Ref: 13479.

Buccellati Handmade Diamond Bands – available on 1stdibs via Steven Fox Jewelry
This trilogy of handmade Mario Buccellati signed bands represent the history of one of the world’s master jewelers who was dubbbed, by the eighteenth century poet Gabriele D’Annuzio, as the “Prince of Goldsmiths”. Known for his nature inspired pierced and honeycombed leaves and flowers, these Buccellati rings are so delicately crafted that they resemble fine lace and spun gold. Pick one or all three of these rings which each consist of an inner band of webbed and filigreed 18K white gold with textured edges outlined in 18K yellow gold. Micro set diamonds are scattered throughout the entire surface of each ring.
A. Top band features a geometric lace design with center diamond shaped motifs. Diamond weight approx. 1.10 carats. Price: $9,400.00. Size: 5 3/4″. Width: 9 3/4MM or approx. 3/8″.
Ref: 13478
B. Middle band features a geometric lace design with round center diamonds for a total weight of approx. .60 carats. Price: $9,750. Size: 5 3/4″. Width: 9MM for approx. 3/8″ Ref: 13429.
C. Bottom band features a lace foliate design. Diamond weight approx. .55 carats. Price: $8,850.00. Size: 6 1/4″. Width: 9 1/2 MM or approx. 3/8″ Ref: 13479.

 

Cartier Diamond Elephant Earrings

CARTIER Diamond Elephant Earrings - available on 1stdibs via Alice Kwartler Rare figural 18k gold elephant earrings signed and numbered CARTIER. 5.50cts of full cut diamonds; faceted ruby eyes. This charming pair will bring you good luck!

CARTIER Diamond Elephant Earrings – available on 1stdibs via Alice Kwartler
Rare figural 18k gold elephant earrings signed and numbered CARTIER.
5.50cts of full cut diamonds; faceted ruby eyes. This charming pair will bring you good luck!

 

Art Deco Diamond, Sapphire and Platinum Brooch

Art Deco Diamond, Sapphire and Platinum Brooch - available on 1stdibs via Macklowe Gallery An Art Deco platinum brooch with diamonds and sapphires. This oval brooch features 86 round and rose cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2,75 carats, and 46 calibre cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.70 carats. The classic Art Deco sapphire details extend from the four hemispheres of the oval to its center.

Art Deco Diamond, Sapphire and Platinum Brooch – available on 1stdibs via Macklowe Gallery
An Art Deco platinum brooch with diamonds and sapphires. This oval brooch features 86 round and rose cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2,75 carats, and 46 calibre cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.70 carats. The classic Art Deco sapphire details extend from the four hemispheres of the oval to its center.

Holiday Wishlist – Happy Hanukkah

$
0
0

Tonight is the second night of Hanukkah, the annual eight-night Jewish holiday that usually falls between Thanksgiving and Christmas. With red and green the colors of Christmas, the Festival of Lights adopted its official colors of blue and white, or blue and silver, from the Israeli flag. Designed by the Zionist movement in 1891, the flag of Israel was officially adopted in 1948.

“The flag’s blue stripes symbolize those found on tallitot, traditional Jewish prayer shawls that are worn at synagogue, bar or bat mitzvahs, and Jewish weddings. So why are there blue stripes on tallitot? According to the Bible, the Israelites were told to dye a thread on their tassels with tekhelet, a blue ink from a sea snail, ‘so that they may look upon it, and remember all the commandments of the LORD, and do them.’

In 1864, the Jewish poet Ludwig August Frankl named blue and white ‘the colors of Judah’ in a poem not so surprisingly called ‘Judah’s Colors.’ An excerpt: ‘When sublime feelings his heart fill, he is mantled in the colors of his country… Blue and white are the colors of Judah; white is the radiance of the priesthood, and blue, the splendors of the firmament.'” (Source)

Interpreted in jewelry, the refreshing combination of crisp blue sapphires and sparkly white diamonds set in white metal is a beautiful way to commemorate this Jewish holiday – not to mention a welcome reprieve from all the red and green. Happy Hanukkah!

Van Cleef & Arpels ​Invisible-Set Sapphire & Diamond Earclips (Betteridge) Mystery-Set Sapphire & Diamond 'Double Boule' Ring by Van Cleef & Arpels (Hancocks) Sapphire Diamond Platinum Gold Earrings (Israel Rose via 1stdibs) French Art Deco Sapphire & Diamond Bracelet (S.J. Phillips) French Mid-20th Century Sapphire Diamond Platinum Necklace (Macklowe Gallery) Ceylon Sapphire Diamond Platinum Pendant Earrings (Fred Leighton via 1stdibs)

Top from left:

1. Van Cleef & Arpels ​Invisible-Set Sapphire & Diamond Earclips (Betteridge)
2. Mystery-Set Sapphire & Diamond ‘Double Boule’ Ring by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1980 (Hancocks)
3. Sapphire Diamond Platinum Gold Earrings (Israel Rose via 1stdibs)
4. French Art Deco Sapphire & Diamond Bracelet, French, circa 1925 (S.J. Phillips)
5. French Mid-20th Century Sapphire Diamond Platinum Necklace (Macklowe Gallery)
6. Ceylon Sapphire Diamond Platinum Pendant Earrings, circa 1950s (Fred Leighton via 1stdibs)

A Ceylon Cabochon Sapphire & Diamond Trombino Ring by Bulgari, circa 1965 (FD Gallery) Cartier Art Deco Sapphire & Diamond Necklace, circa 1924 (Epoque Fine Jewels) Bulgari Cabochon Sapphire Diamond White Gold Bracelet (Betteridge) Art Deco Sugarloaf Sapphire Diamond Platinum Ring (Bentley & Skinner) Art Deco Sapphire & Diamond Bracelet (A La Vieille Russie) A Sapphire & Diamond Brooch by Tiffany & Co. (Wartski)

Top from left:

1. A 30.00-carat Ceylon Cabochon Sapphire & Diamond Trombino Ring by Bulgari, circa 1965 (FD Gallery)
2. Cartier Art Deco Sapphire & Diamond Necklace, New York, circa 1924 (Epoque Fine Jewels)
3. Bulgari Cabochon Sapphire Diamond White Gold Bracelet (Betteridge)
4. Art Deco Sugarloaf Sapphire Diamond Platinum Ring (Bentley & Skinner via 1stdibs)
5. Art Deco Sapphire & Diamond Bracelet, French, circa 1935 (A La Vieille Russie)
6. A Sapphire & Diamond Brooch by Tiffany & Co. (Wartski)

 

 

 

Star of Wonder, Star of Night

$
0
0

For more than two millenia, the star has been a symbol of Christmas ever since the three wise men followed the Star of Bethlehem to see the newborn baby Jesus. Known as the Christmas Star, the miraculous Star of Bethlehem revealed the birth of “the king of the Jews” when it arose in the night sky. Only the nativity story in the Gospel of Matthew shares the presence of the guiding star, however the single account forever immortalized this shining sign of Christ’s birth as an integral icon of Christmas tradition.

French 19th Century Diamond Yellow Gold Star Brooch (1stdibs)

French 19th Century Diamond Yellow Gold Star Brooch (1stdibs)

Best remembered in the Christmas carol ‘We Three Kings’, the refrain celebrates the Star of Bethlehem as the kings’ guiding light as they travel across the desert from the east toward Bethlehem to meet the newborn king:

O star of wonder, star of night,
Star of royal beauty bright,
Westward leading, still proceeding,
Following yonder star.

While the star represents a great many things in life, its meaning at Christmas is most significant in the Christian faith. Sparkling from atop Christmas trees and in countless glittering decorations, the ever-present star shines brightest during this time of year.

Renee Lewis Diamond, Gold & Silver Star Pendant Necklace - Barney's

Renee Lewis Diamond, 18k Gold & Silver Star Pendant Necklace (Barney’s)

What better way to interpret the star than in a piece of jewelry? The star has inspired a great number of jewelry designs, my favorite versions twinkle with diamonds in glowing yellow gold. The Victorian period saw the star’s rise as a popular jewelry motif for brooches, growing more elaborate in design toward the end of the 19th century. During the 20th century, the most notable fans of the symbol were Coco Chanel and Fulco di Verdura, the two of whom often created jewels with the celestial motif. Today, the star endures in gleaming gold and gems, and is truly the perfect jeweled symbol to don at Christmas time. I’ve picked some of my favorite star jewels from the past and present to inspire a bit of last-minute Christmas spirit!

An antique gold cuff bracelet with star-set old mine cut diamonds and beaded wirework borders, in 15k. Circa 1870 (Kentshire) Verdura 'Pleiades' 18k Gold, Platinum & Diamond Earclips (Betteridge) Solange Azagury-Partridge 24:7 Star Bracelet in 18k yellow gold Natural Pearl and 18k Gold Clip Star Earrings, circa 1900 (Steven Fox Jewelry via 1stdibs) H. Stern Star Ring in 18k gold with Diamonds Diane Kordas Star Earcuff with Multicolored Sapphires and Diamonds (Moda Operandi) Colette 18k Gold & Champagne Diamond Star Earrings (London Jewelers) 1940s Cartier Double Star Clip Brooch in 18k Gold with Ruby & Diamond (1stdibs)

This post is brought to you in collaboration with LoveGold.

LoveGold Logo

Belles of the New Year’s Eve Ball

$
0
0

As an unofficial annual tradition on New Years Eve, I always switch the TV on to watch the glittering Times Square Ball drop as it counts down the remaining 60 seconds of the year. Though I doubt I’m the only one to do this almost religiously, watching the glittering ball slowly descend allows us all to take one minute to reflect on all that has transpired that year.

Jade Jagger Rainbow Disco-ball Ring

Jade Jagger Rainbow Disco-ball Ring (1stdibs)

During that seemingly long minute, the 11,875-pound ball, made by Waterford Crystal, shines to life with 32,256 LED lamps dazzling us all with its themed light show. This year’s theme is the first in a series known as “Greatest Gifts”, beginning with the “Gift of Imagination.” After its descent of 141 feet, Times Square explodes with fireworks in celebration of the New Year while revelers kiss their loved ones or those closest to them, as a tradition of course. Is there a more hopeful and enthusiastic time of year than New Years?!

Coleoptere 18k Gold Diving Bell Necklace - Stone & Strand

Coléoptère 18k Gold Diving Bell Necklace (Stone & Strand)

Without question, one of my favorite parties of the year is the New Years Eve party. Full of bright hopes and brimming with optimism, everyone dresses in their most festive attire, particularly dresses in shimmering metallic fabrics accompanied by even brighter jewelry. I can’t think of a more fun and fabulous way to wow this New Years Eve than to don sparkling jeweled orbs of your own to rival that of Times Square. Jewels with dazzling gold spheres speckled with diamonds and colored stones, or globes adorned with precious stones set in gold perhaps, are sure to be the radiant belles of any New Years Eve ball.

Marco Bicego Africa Three Strand 18k Gold Ball Graduated Drop Earrings Yossi Harari 18k Gold Lace Ball Cuff Temple St. Clair 18k Gold Cosmic Crystal Pendant Halleh Jewelry 18k Gold Diamond & Pearl Sphaera Ring (Stone & Strand) Seaman Schepps Bubble Drop Earrings Mauboussin 18k Gold, Rock Crystal & Diamond Ring (Betteridge) Cartier 18K Yellow Gold Diamond Pave Drop Earrings Elena Votsi 18k Gold Ball Ring (Stone & Strand)

Wishing everyone a very healthy and Happy New Year! All the best for 2015!

This post is brought to you in collaboration with LoveGold.

LoveGold Logo

Gold Engagement Rings On the Rise

$
0
0

Over the New Year’s holiday, a number of couples got engaged – including my twin sister! Now more than ever, the range of styles for engagement rings grows ever wider as consumers search for more unique designs. While white metals have primarily  dominated the engagement ring domain for the past century, the nostalgic effect of yellow gold has won over an increasing number of brides-to-be in recent years.

McTeigue & McClelland Old European Cut Diamond Flora Ring in 18k Gold & Platinum

McTeigue & McClelland Old European Cut Diamond Flora Ring in 18k Gold & Platinum

For centuries the diamond has been the preferred stone of an engagement ring, its hardness and indestructible nature came to symbolize the fidelity promised with marriage. The first recognized exchange of a diamond ring with wedding vows occurred in 1477 when Archduke Maximillian of Austria gave Mary of Burgundy a gold ring with the letter M spelled out in tiny diamonds. During the 15th and 16th centuries, early – and rather primitive – diamond cuts such as point, table and triangular granted goldsmiths a simple focal point to surround with increasingly elaborate settings in yellow gold.

16th Century Ring - A ring of high carat gold in hexagonal shape with a rose cut diamond, Dutch or German, around 1580. (Kunsthandel Inez Stodel)

16th Century Ring – A ring of high carat gold in hexagonal shape with a rose cut diamond, Dutch or German, around 1580. (Kunsthandel Inez Stodel)

From around the 16th century onward, no royal marriage was complete without a diamond ring. Not too surprisingly, diamonds were also the stone of choice for people of wealth, who prized its rarity, beauty and value. During this period, the art of the goldsmith could be seen in the intricate gold settings of diamond rings, whose embellishments included quatrefoil bezels, engraved scroll or ribbon ornaments, and bright enamel decorations.

16th-century diamond and enamel ring, now at Ranger’s House, London (© with kind permission of The Wernher Foundation)

16th-century diamond and enamel ring, now at Ranger’s House, London (© with kind permission of The Wernher Foundation)

As more sources for diamonds were found in Brazil beginning in 1727, the increased supply incited new and innovative cuts as well as more diverse settings. Up until the 20th century, the diamond was often set in silver-topped gold bezel settings, sometimes in cluster-style designs with smaller stones, with yellow gold bands of varying design.

A Georgian flower antique engagement ring (Martha Stewart Weddings)

A Georgian flower antique engagement ring (The Three Graces)

The rise of platinum, which was preferred over gold for its light weight and neutral color, began at the turn of the 20th century. Though yellow gold enjoyed resurgences in popularity in the mid-1930s and after World War II, platinum has ruled as the metal of choice for a diamond engagement ring.

1930's 14k Gold & Diamond Ring (Excalibur Jewelry)

1930’s 14k Gold & Diamond Ring (Excalibur Jewelry)

While platinum’s popularity will most likely remain in place for the foreseeable future, the uniqueness of yellow gold settings, whether in new or vintage rings, will certainly challenge convention in the engagement ring arena. Just as yellow gold jewelry has returned with gusto over the last decade, I think yellow and even rose gold diamond rings will continue to win favor among ‘millenials’ and future generations.

Here are a few of my favorite yellow gold engagement rings, both new and vintage:

Victorian 1.40 Carat Center Diamond Halo Engagement Ring (Trumpet & Horn via 1stdibs) Rose Gold Diamond Engagement Ring (Kwiat) Hemmerle Colored Diamond and Brushed Gold Ring (FD Gallery) Linda Lee Johnson Diamond & Gold Casino Ring (Barney's) Fred Leighton 4.61ct Old Mine Cut Diamond & Gold Filigree Engagement Ring (1stdibs) Antique Stuart 17th Century Diamond Cluster Betrothal Ring (Berganza via 1stdibs) JAR Diamond Solitaire Ring in Yellow Gold (RAF via 1stdibs) A Victorian Diamond & Gold Floral Cluster Ring (Glorious Antique Jewelry) Alex Sepkus Diamond Yellow Gold Engagement Ring (Photo courtesy of Luxury Bazaar) Monique Péan Minéraux Yellow Diamond Marquise & Gold Ring (Barney's)

This post is brought to you in collaboration with LoveGold.

LoveGold Logo

Jean Mahie: Sculptured Jewels Inspired by the Ancients

$
0
0

The intriguing work of Jean Mahie always catches my eye whenever I come across one of its pieces. Interstingly, Jean Mahie is not actually a person, but a name created by two creative individuals. In 1969, Jean-Marie Mazard and his daughter-in-law Jacline Mazard decided to merge their respective talents for goldsmithing and painting and create unique, hand-crafted jewelry in 22-karat gold. The resulting creations broke from tradition, their sculptural pieces inspired by antiquity were a far cry from the gem-set, brightly colored jewels of the major jewelry firms of the same period.

A TWENTY-TWO KARAT GOLD WIDE BANGLE BRACELET, Jean Mahie Bonhams

A 22k Gold Wide Bangle Bracelet, by Jean Mahie (Bonhams)

As the new decade dawned, the freedom of artistic jewelry of the 1960s took root and continued to flourish, complimenting the new ethnic, exotic fashions of the early 1970s. And, as yellow gold became the preferred precious metal of the era, the new creations by Jean Mahie could not have debuted under more perfect circumstances.

A 22k Gold Cuff Bracelet, Jean Mahie, circa 1970, depicting abstract animals and insects (Sotheby's)

A 22k Gold Cuff Bracelet, Jean Mahie, circa 1970, depicting abstract animals and insects (Sotheby’s)

Known for the primitive, and often expressive, figures featured in its jewelry, Jean Mahie was first retailed, albeit briefly, at Van Cleef & Arpels in Paris, and Cartier soon followed. At the time, both houses, along with the other major French brands, wanted to add to their inventories jewelry by independent artists whose creative designs were more emblematic of the decade. The relationship between Mahie and the two Maisons ended when the firms expressed plans to mass market her creations and take control of the brand.

An Abstract Mask Ring, by Jean Mahie for Cartier. The ring is signed Jean Mahie and also signed Cartier and numbered. (Bonhams)

An Abstract Mask Ring, by Jean Mahie for Cartier. The ring is signed Jean Mahie and also signed Cartier and numbered. (Bonhams)

Not long after the split, Stanley Marcus of Neiman Marcus recognized the appeal of Jean Mahie jewelry and wooed the Mazards to distribute exclusively with the department store. To this day, Neiman Marcus remains the sole retailer of Jean Mahie, helping the brand achieve a cult-like status among jewelry collectors over the past four decades.

22k Gold Link Necklace, Jean Mahie, circa 1970s (Fortrove via 1stdibs)

22k Gold Link Necklace, Jean Mahie, circa 1970s (Fortrove via 1stdibs)

It’s hard to mistake a piece of Jean Mahie as something else; its primitive gold figures inspired by Roman, Greek and Phoenician art leave a lasting impression. Between the enduring appeal of yellow gold and continued interest in our ancient ancestors and their civilizations, the aesthetic of Jean Mahie continues to attract new collectors and faithful customers alike. As relevant today as when it first debuted, Jean Mahie seamlessly combines the art of fine jewelry with spiritual works of art independent of the changing times.

A 22k Gold Sculpture, Jean Mahie. Available at Neil Marrs (image courtesy of Bonhams)

A 22k Gold Sculpture, Jean Mahie. Available at Neil Marrs (image courtesy of Bonhams)

A Pair of 22k Gold Dice, Jean Mahie. Available at FD Gallery

A Pair of 22k Gold Dice, Jean Mahie. Available at FD Gallery

Jean Mahie Earrings 1985

A Pair of 22k Gold Earrings, Jean Mahie, circa 1985. Available at Beladora

 

Lotus Position Pendant in 22k Gold, Jean Mahie. Available at Robin Katz

Lotus Position Pendant in 22k Gold, Jean Mahie. Available at Robin Katz

 


Estate Jewelry Round Up – Jewels from the Animal Kingdom

$
0
0

Animals have long been a source of inspiration for jewelers as well as an enduring favorite of collectors. From elegant swans to ferocious tigers, nothing in the wild is off limits from jewelry’s taming into sparkling works of art. This week’s Estate Jewelry Round Up features a number of rare and unique jewels that were seemingly taken straight from the Animal Kingdom.

(There are a couple of spectacular non-animal pieces in the round up too.)

Van Cleef & Arpels Yellow Diamond Tiger Mother and Cub Brooch -  Betteridge

Van Cleef & Arpels Yellow Diamond Tiger Mother and Cub Brooch – Betteridge

Bulgari Jaeger-LeCoultre Lady's Enamel Gold Serpenti Bracelet - Robin Katz Vintage Jewels

Bulgari Jaeger-LeCoultre Lady’s Enamel Gold Serpenti Bracelet, circa 1960s (Robin Katz Vintage Jewels)

Henry Dunay Gold Platinum Sharpei Dog Brooch -

Henry Dunay Gold Platinum Sharpei Dog Brooch (1stdibs)

La Triomphe Elephant Pendant Necklace - Mahnaz Collection

La Triomphe Gold, Diamond & Emerald Elephant Necklace, circa 1970s (Mahnaz Collection)

Faberge Kalgan Jasper Circus Elephant Sculpture - A La Vieille Russie

Faberge Kalgan Jasper Circus Elephant Sculpture, circa 1900 (A La Vieille Russie via 1stdibs)

Diamond, sapphire, black enamel & gold gazelle brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels - Hancocks

Diamond, sapphire, black enamel & gold gazelle brooch, by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1971 (Hancocks)

A Smoky Quartz Diamond & Gold Dog Sculpture, by Asprey

A Smoky Quartz Diamond & Gold Dog Sculpture, by Asprey (FD Gallery)

 

And now for the non-animal jewels, but no less fabulous, in this week’s round up:

Dreicer & Co. French Belle Epoque Diamond, Ruby and Platinum Necklace - Macklowe Gallery

Dreicer & Co. French Belle Epoque Diamond, Ruby and Platinum Necklace , circa 1910 (Macklowe Gallery)

Cartier Retro Diamond Gold Ribbon Bracelet - Steven Fox Jewelry

Cartier Retro Diamond Gold Ribbon Bracelet, circa 1945-1949 (Steven Fox Jewelry via 1stdibs)

 

Estate Jewelry Round Up – It’s April!

$
0
0

Finally, April is here with the promise of warmer weather ahead – hopefully. This week’s Estate Jewelry Round Up is a fun one, so I’ll just let you browse the pieces rather than read my ramblings.

Georges Lenfant Yellow Gold & Diamond Bracelet - Symbolic & Chase

Georges Lenfant Yellow Gold & Diamond Bracelet – Symbolic & Chase

Designed as a graduated series of swirling motifs, composed of yellow gold ropework, embellished with brilliant-cut diamonds, closing to form a semi-rigid bracelet, 1950s, maker’s mark for Georges Lenfant, French assay mark for 18t gold.

 

Enamel and Gold Spinning Top Pendant Charm - Steven Fox Jewelry

Enamel and Gold Spinning Top Pendant Charm – Steven Fox Jewelry

This romantic spinning top charm is custom designed by Steven Fox and was inspired by a similar Victorian pendant he gifted to his wife. Based on an age old game, originating in France and called “Effeuiller la Marguerite” or “he loves me/he loves me not”, this handmade 18 karat yellow gold top was designed to give the wearer more potential love outcomes than the original game of just yes or no to love. Black enameled into the sides of the top are the French words, IL M’AIME UN PEU, BEAUCOUP, PASSIONNEMENT, and PAS DU TOUT, which translates to “he/she loves me a little, a lot, passionately, or not at all”. Just spin the charm and, depending on what side it lands on, it will discern what your future love life is destined to be.

 

A Pair of Amethyst, Coral and Diamond Ear Pendants, by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1960 - FD Gallery

A Pair of Amethyst, Coral and Diamond Ear Pendants, by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1960 – FD Gallery

 

Very Rare Georgian Ruby Sapphire Emerald Diamond Gold Ring circa 1760 - Berganza via 1stdibs

Very Rare Georgian Ruby Sapphire Emerald Diamond Gold Ring circa 1760 – Berganza via 1stdibs

A very rare Georgian diamond, ruby, emerald and sapphire giardinetti ring. An important piece, set with an oval old mine diamond in a closed back silver cutdown setting with a weight of 0.40 carats, a horizontally set cushion shape old cut natural unenhanced ruby in a closed back yellow gold millegrain cutdown setting with an approximate weight of 0.85 carats, two cushion shape old cut natural unenhanced sapphires in closed back yellow gold cutdown settings with a combined weight of 0.35 carats, two cushion shape old cut natural emeralds with no colour enhancement in closed back yellow gold cutdown settings with a combined weight of 0.15 carats, and five cushion shape old mine diamonds with a combined weight of 0.07 carats in closed back silver cutdown settings. The total approximate diamond weight is 0.47 carats, to an elegant giardinetti cluster of an intricate scrolling openwork bouquet motif, with split shoulders and a smooth bezel engraved to depict a patterned basket, with piercing to the shoulders and a solid ridged shank. Tested yellow gold and silver, circa 1760.

 

David Webb Geometric Gold Bracelet - Aaron Faber

David Webb Geometric Gold Bracelet – Aaron Faber

18K yellow gold David Webb geometric link bracelet circa the 1980s is a sculptural, three-dimensional, very wearable link bracelet from New York’s famous designer.

 

Mauboussin Paris Gold Wirework Collar Necklace - Mahnaz Collection

Mauboussin Paris Gold Wirework Collar Necklace – Mahnaz Collection

This exquisite yellow gold collar necklace comes to us from French firm Mauboussin, circa 1950. Featuring gold wirework wrapped in a cursive design around a thick gold industrial-look cord, this collar places itself around the neck with striking fluidity. Such necklaces of course are extremely popular on the Paris and New York runways today, but few attain the craftsmanship and strict beauty of this Mauboussin gems.

 

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Gold Meteor Clip - Neil Marrs

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Gold Meteor Clip – Neil Marrs

The brooch featuring a platinum and diamond domed element (set with 36 white circular-cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.20 carats total) trailing a dramatic sweep of polished yellow gold rays like a meteor shooting across the sky, signed Van Cleef et Arpels, numbered #74025, with French assay marks for 18kt gold and platinum, French maker’s marks for Lenfant, hinged double pin clip back with safety catch, measuring approximately 1 3/8 inches high, weighing approximately 13.9 dwt or 21.6 g, ca. 1956.

 

Marchak Sapphire Diamond Gold Ear Pendants - Macklowe Gallery

Marchak Sapphire Diamond Gold Ear Pendants – Macklowe Gallery

A pair of French Mid 20th Century earrings with blue sapphires and diamonds by Marchak. The earrings have 30 oval blue sapphires with an approximate total weight of 6.30 carats, and 14 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .76 carats. The long ‘swirl’ sapphire and diamond shape is pulled through a gold rope textured ring with the bottom half of the swirl articulated under the ring.

Circa 1950’s.

Signed, Marchak Paris 23987RB with Saturn maker’s mark Barrey.

 

Kieselstein-Cord Gold Studded Flexible Open Link Bracelet - Antique Reflections via 1stdibs

Kieselstein-Cord Gold Studded Flexible Open Link Bracelet – Antique Reflections via 1stdibs

18kt green gold flexible and versatile link bracelet with each link and connector links embellished with numerous 18kt gold studs for a beautiful reptile effect that Barry Kieselstein-Cord is known for . This is a beautiful heavy and great quality everyday wearable bracelet designed in 2006.

 

Calibre Ruby Diamond Drop Earrings - M.S. Rau Antiques

Calibre Ruby Diamond Drop Earrings – M.S. Rau Antiques

These remarkable diamond and ruby drop earrings make a dramatic statement. Richly hued red rubies weighing approximately 3.00 total carats make a striking impact set amidst 2.70 total carats of fiery diamonds. Two cushion cut diamonds weighing a combined 2.01 carats dazzle at the center of each drop. Set in platinum, the lavish pair are completed by floral backs for added flair.

 

Cartier Impressive Emerald and Diamond Necklace - Symbolic & Chase

Cartier Impressive Emerald and Diamond Necklace – Symbolic & Chase

Designed as a central octagonal-shaped emerald weighing 26.56 carats, within a yellow gold surround set with baguette diamonds, to a graduated platinum necklace composed of baguette-shaped diamonds, circa 1980, signed Cartier and numbered 11439, stamped PLAT for platinum. Formerly from the collection of Catherine Deneuve. Accompanied by an SSEF certificate stating that the emerald has minor clarity enhancement. Also accompanied by a Cartier appraisal dating February 9th 1985 stating that the total diamond carat weight is 60.47carats.

 

Faberge Sapphire Diamond Yellow Gold Bracelet - Fred Leighton

Faberge Sapphire Diamond Yellow Gold Bracelet – Fred Leighton

A fancy link bracelet is set with alternating terminals of sapphires totaling approximately 2.85 carats and old mine diamonds totaling approximately 2 carats mounted in 14 karat yellow gold with a Cyrillic signature for Faberge. The bracelet measures 7-3/8 inches by 1/2 inch. Circa 1880s.

The Seventies Strike Back

$
0
0

The fashion forecast for this spring and summer is a deluge of Seventies influences. Everything from hippie and bohemian chic to military khaki and eclectic mix & match prints were revamped for the 21st century woman when Spring/Summer 2015 collections debuted last fall.

Runway looks for Spring/Summer 2015

Runway looks for Spring/Summer 2015 (Photo courtesy of The Trend Spotter)

Hitching a ride on the groovy ’70s trend is the bright and bold vintage jewelry from the decade, pairing perfectly with fashion’s latest take on the era that brought us caftans, crushed velvet, bell bottoms and boleros. Jewelry design in the ’70s was split between one-of-a-kind, often commissioned, pieces set with exquisite stones and more mid-priced jewels for the fashion-conscious woman increasingly buying jewelry for herself.

L'Officiel magazine, 1972

L’Officiel magazine, 1972

Meeting this new demand, the world’s premiere jewelry houses like Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari and Tiffany introduced seasonal collections inspired by the current trends in fashion by using colorful non-precious materials. Coral, turquoise, malachite, lapis lazuli, onyx and rock crystal were mixed and matched in compelling combinations evoking the flair in fashion at the time. The American designer David Webb widely experimented with the mixing of colors using hardstones, enamels and yellow gold to create voluminous shapes in his jewelry.

Gold, Coral and Green Onyx Pendant-Necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels, France

Gold, Coral and Green Onyx Pendant-Necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels, France. Photo courtesy of Doyle New York

Suites became popular, too, comprising long chains with a pendant drop, earrings and typically a ring. The introduction of carved woods was a new concept, used extensively in the collections from Boucheron and Van Cleef & Arpels. Moreover, influences from India and its jewelry swept over the West as seen in the cabochon stones, stylized flowers, sautoirs, girandole and pampille pendant earrings, and vibrant color schemes like ruby, emerald and diamond.

A superb emerald, ruby, and diamond necklace, by Bulgari (est. $300,000 - $400,000)

A superb emerald, ruby, and diamond necklace, by Bulgari, circa 1970. Photo courtesy of Christie’s

The 1970s also marked the comeback of yellow gold, setting nearly everything in the rich warmth of the precious metal. Diamonds, traditionally set in white gold or platinum, became more suitable for wear during the day when set in yellow gold, which gave the flashy gem a more casual look. Yellow gold played a large part in jewelry made solely of the metal, with designers and houses continuing to experiment with the material in unprecedented ways.

A Pair of Bi-Colored Gold Hoop Ear Clips, by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1970 (FD Gallery)

A Pair of Bi-Colored Gold Hoop Ear Clips, by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1970 (FD Gallery)

Texture and volume, color and dynamism characterized jewelry of the 1970s, creating a suitable segue for today’s Seventies-inspired styles for the season. On the secondary market, there’s plenty of jewels to choose from…

1970s Faraone Chrysoprase Diamond Gold Sautoir and Bracelet

An exquisite Faraone 18k gold sautoir designed as alternating diamond-set and chrysophrase circular links with a detachable bracelet and detachable matching pendant of a quatrefoil design. Necklace measures 31.5″ long and .75″ wide (including 7.25″ bracelet and 2.25″ pendant). Total approximate diamond weight is 16 carats. Necklace, bracelet and pendant all signed Faraone with gold marks and maker’s marks. The workshop which crafted this piece was a well known manufacturer for Bulgari as well as Van Cleef & Arpels. The quality of workmanship is evident in the feel, flow and movement of this piece. Circa 1970s (Robin Katz Vintage Jewels)

Van Cleef & Arpels Large Flower Brooch 1970s

Van Cleef and Arpels Large Flower Brooch, circa 1970s 18K Yellow Gold, set with Diamonds, Lapis Lazuli and White Bone. Having a Double pin- clip back. Signed, Numbered and Having French Hall Marks. (N. Green & Sons via 1stdibs)

David Webb Carved Lapis Lazuli Chrysoprase Ruby Diamond Pendant

David Webb Hardstone Pendant – Mounted in 18k gold, the carved lapis ingot of this 1970s David Webb pendant is offset by a ring of chrysoprase, deep hued cabochon rubies, and a sprinkling of quality diamonds. (Mahnaz Collection)

A pair of 18kt, lapis, gold and enamel A. Clunn earrings. The button-shaped top portion is a bezel-set lapis cabochon that is intersected by the diamond-shaped lower portion of enameled red with bands of 18kt gold at each corner. (Macklowe Gallery)

A pair of 18kt, lapis, gold and enamel A. Clunn earrings, circa 1970s. The button-shaped top portion is a bezel-set lapis cabochon that is intersected by the diamond-shaped lower portion of enameled red with bands of 18kt gold at each corner. (Macklowe Gallery)

Gilbert Albert, "Lost my Marbles" Gold and Agate Ring, circa 1970 (Kimberly Klosterman via 1stdibs)

Gilbert Albert, “Lost my Marbles” Gold and Agate Ring, circa 1970 (Kimberly Klosterman via 1stdibs)

Georges Lenfant Gold French Puzzle Bracelet

Georges Lenfant Gold French Puzzle Bracelet, Paris, circa 1975 (Steven Fox Jewelry via 1stdibs) 

Carved White & Pink Coral, Diamond & Gold Sautoir Necklace, Earrings and Bracelet Suite, by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1970 (Hancock's)

Carved White & Pink Coral, Diamond & Gold Sautoir Necklace, Earrings and Bracelet Suite, by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1970 (Hancock’s)

A pair of gold doorknocker style earrings with double hoop pendants, one in carved tiger's eye, in 18k. Circa 1970 (Kentshire)

A pair of gold doorknocker style earrings with double hoop pendants, one in carved tiger’s eye, in 18k. Circa 1970 (Kentshire)

Estate Jewelry Round Up – Mid-Century Magnetism

$
0
0

It’s officially summer, and the carefree spirit lulling in the air calls for jewelry that is not too serious but wearable and fun. Mid-century jewelry fit this casual mood perfectly. The range of design was seemingly limitless thanks to the experimental atmosphere, rendering many jewels of this period eternally modern. The latest Estate Jewelry Round Up gathers several of the newest exploratory pieces on the secondary market in celebration of the first week of summer.

Angela Cummings Mariner Link Gold Necklace

Angela Cummings 18k gold necklace designed as a series of interlocking stylized mariner oval links with an organic design of random sized perforations throughout the links. Cummings’ work often featured surfaces and textures found in the natural and aquatic worlds. 17.5″ long with an internal circumference of 16′. Each link is 1.25″ wide. 195.5 grams. Signed ANGELA CUMMINGS 1988. (Robin Katz)

1960s Tiffany & Co. Lapis Lazuli Malachite Gold Ring.

1960s Tiffany & Co. Lapis Lazuli Malachite Gold Ring. in 18K gold, of square form, two opposite sides set with lapis and malachite, the other two with a light hand applied Florentine finish. Tiffany and gold marks. (Kenneth James Collection via 1stdibs)

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with diamonds and lapis lazuli by Cartier. The ladybug clip/brooch has 6 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .30 carats which are bezel set into the carved lapis lazuli wings. Circa 1960's. (Macklowe Gallery)

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with diamonds and lapis lazuli by Cartier. The ladybug clip/brooch has 6 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .30 carats which are bezel set into the carved lapis lazuli wings. Circa 1960’s. (Macklowe Gallery)

1950s Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Gold Platinum Cordes Ludo Bracelet

1950s Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Gold Platinum Cordes Ludo Bracelet. A four-row gold ropetwist “Cordes Ludo” bracelet terminating in diamond capped foxtail tassels with a diamond set bar closure. The bracelet is set with atw. 2.66 ct. full cut and single cut diamonds, in 18K gold and platinum. Van Cleef & Arpels, France. (Kentshire)

Lalaounis 22k gold earrings with articulated pendants, circa 1970s (Mahnaz Collection)

Lalaounis 22k gold earrings with articulated pendants, circa 1970s (Mahnaz Collection)

Large Cartier Lion Brooch in 18K

Large Cartier Lion Brooch in 18K Gold. Designed as a large lion’s head, with emerald eyes, with pendant hoop for suspension. Signed Cartier. Circa 1970 (Beladora)

Van Cleef & Arpels 1970s Elephant Hair Gold Bracelet

Van Cleef & Arpels 18k gold bracelet designed as rounded corner square-shaped gold links joined by woven strands of elephant hair. Van Cleef produced a very limited number of gold and elephant hair bracelets of various styles in the 1970s. Internal circumference of 6.75″ and ⅝” wide. Signed VCA OR 750 with French hallmark and maker;s mark. Circa 1970s. (Robin Katz)

Modernist Gold Ring by Pierre Cardin, circa 1960s. Llikely designed by Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. Dinh Van, trained at Cartier , worked for both Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne in the 1960's before opening his own store In 1965. The clean lines and modernist style is truly 60's Cardin. (Hancock's)

Modernist Gold Ring by Pierre Cardin, circa 1960s. Llikely designed by Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. Dinh Van, trained at Cartier , worked for both Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne in the 1960’s before opening his own store In 1965. The clean lines and modernist style is truly 60’s Cardin. (Hancock’s)

1960s Alan Martin Gard Rhodochrosite Gold Ear Clips

1960s Alan Martin Gard Rhodochrosite Gold Ear Clips. Texture is the focus in these 18k gold, rhodochrosite and diamond ear clips, a lovely example of Alan Martin Gard’s jewelry in the late 1960s. The rough rhodochrosite contrasts with the smooth and textured gold pieces of these ear clips from 1968, each with a diamond accent. Gard, who worked for four years with Andrew Grima in the early 1960s, opened his own business in 1964. During the 1960s and 70s, British jewelers like Gard were redefining fine jewelry by mixing traditional and new materials and emphasizing design. (MC Jewels via 1stdibs)

Cartier Aldo Cipullo Lapis and Black Onyx Bracelet in 18K

Cartier Aldo Cipullo Lapis and Black Onyx Bracelet in 18K. Designed as open circles of lapis lazuli, joined by 18k yellow gold links enhanced with a single pyramid-shaped black onyx. Signed Cartier A.Cipullo. Circa 1973. (Beladora)

Rumor Has It…The Brooch Is Back!

$
0
0

All year, the fashion magazines (Vogue, WWD and most recently Town & Country) have been heralding the comeback of the brooch, and no one could be happier about this trend than me. Actually, I’m sure everyone in the vintage jewelry industry is pretty ecstatic too. The brooch is a classic piece of jewelry that is the most versatile in design and, more importantly, the most fun to wear.

Given the right conditions (size, weight, composition, etc.), you can wear a brooch virtually anywhere: on a lapel, on a chic hat, as an adornment on a dress, in your hair, as a pendant, and whatever else your imagination can conjure for exciting plays to wear a brooch. The best thing about the brooch being in vogue again? There are plenty of options to choose from! Here are some of my favorites for fall:

A Pair of Silver, Green Beryl and Grey Chalcedony Dress Clips, Suzanne Belperron - up for sale at auction at Leslie Hindman Im Superb Cartier Art Deco Emerald Onyx Diamond Pin - Morelle Davidson 19th Century Elegant Diamond Silver Gold Cressent Brooch - 1stdibs Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1937 - up for sale at aucitona at Sotheby's An antique turquoise and diamond starburst brooch:pendant, in 18k gold - Kentshire Victorian Diamond Wheat Ear Brooch - A La Vieille Russie Victorian Diamond Swallow Pins - Betteridge Art Deco diamond and gem set brooch in the form of a goose by Cartier, Paris c.1935 - S.J. Phillips Taffin Brooch René Boivin Owl Brooch, circa 1970's - Mahnaz Collection Mauboussin Paris Geometric Gold Set - Neil Marrs Diamond Black Onyx Gold Zebra Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels circa 1980 - Hancock's

 

Viewing all 21 articles
Browse latest View live